Diary of Captain Gaspar de Portolá
Portola Expedition, 1769-1770
1/1/1770 -- The 1st of January, 1770, we proceeded for four hours over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey].
1/2/1770 -- The 2nd, we proceeded for four hours over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey].
1/3/1770 -- The 3rd, we proceeded for four hours over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey].
1/4/1770 -- The 4th, we proceeded for six hours and made [the same distance as in] two marches on the outward journey.
1/5/1770 -- The 5th, we proceeded for four hours along the beach, which is that of the Santa Bárbara channel, over the road by which we had come, and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey].
1/6/1770 -- The 6th, we proceeded for about four hours over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey]. There was no lack of fish for the camp.
1/7/1770 -- The 7th, we travelled for about four hours [and made the same distance [as on the outward journey] over the road by which we had come. Here we were provided with some fish and grain.
1/8/1770 -- The 8th, we proceeded for about four hours over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey. Here also, we obtained some fish.
1/9/1770 -- The 9th, we proceeded for about three hours and a half over the road by which we had come and [made the same] distance [as on the outward journey].
1/10/1770 -- The 10th, we proceeded [for a distance] somewhat greater than [we had made in] three marches on the outward journey, which was about six hours travel. We halted in the town of La Carpintería, where we expected [to find] a plentiful supply of fish, but it had hardly any.
1/11/1770 -- The 11th, we proceeded for six hours [and made a distance] somewhat greater than in two marches on the previous journey. We halted in the last town before leaving the channel. All the time we have been moving along the [Santa Bárbara] channel we have experienced a very genial temperature and almost heat; this, too, in January with a perfectly clear sky which we did not have, in the month of August, on the outward journey, when we experienced nothing but fogs and winds.
1/12/1770 -- The 12th, we travelled for more than seven hours, taking a route different from that by which we had come and crossing a range that projects into the sea. Near this we left the channel, having crossed a most beautiful level stretch made by the river along which we had come on the outward journey. We halted in a village of forty natives.
1/13/1770 -- The 13th, we travelled for about five hours, following the direct road through the Valle del Encino where the road was not very good. We halted in a village of about fifty natives.
1/14/1770 -- The 14th, we travelled for about five hours by a different road and halted in a village which had about thirty natives.
1/15/1770 -- The 15th, we proceeded for seven hours on a bad road and descended to the Llano del Encino to which we had been looking forward.
1/16/1770 -- The 16th, we travelled for four hours, taking a road different from that by which we had come. We halted where there was a small watering-place, having, on the way, come to a village of about sixty natives.
1/17/1770 -- The 17th we proceeded for about five hours, making [the same distance as in] two marches on the previous journey, and came out on the Llano de la Puente, opposite the great sierra of snow covered mountains, and crossed the river which is called the Porciúncula.
1/18/1770 -- The 18th, we proceeded for about six hours by a different route; as it was shorter, we made [the same distance as in] three marches [on the outward journey].
1/19/1770 -- The 19th, we proceeded for five hours making [the same distance as in] two marches on the outward journey. On this day there was much rain.
1/20/1770 -- The 20th, we proceeded for five hours; we made [the same distance as in] two marches [on the outward journey] over the road by which we had come.
1/21/1770 -- The 21st, we proceeded for about five hours over the road by which we had come, which was necessary because there was less water than on the outward journey.
1/22/1770 -- The 22nd, we made a march of five hours, [and made the same distance as in] two marches on the previous journey.
1/23/1770 -- The 23rd, we proceeded for six hours [and made the same distance as in] three marches on the former journey.
1/24/1770 -- The 24th, we proceeded for five hours, [and made the same distance as in] two marches on the previous journey. On this day we arrived at San Diego, giving thanks to God that, notwithstanding the great labors and privations we had undergone, not a single man had perished. Indeed we had accomplished our return march, through the great providence of God, without other human aid except that, when we were in dire need, we killed some mules for our necessary sustenance.
-- We found at San Diego that the three fathers were there with the entire guard of eight soldiers in leather jackets which had been left; but of the fourteen volunteers, who had remained, eight were dead. The San Carlos was anchored in the same place where we had left her; but, during all this time, neither the San Joseph nor El Principe, had arrived, although it was eight months since the former was to leave Guaymas and seven months since the latter had left this port. For this reason, and because of the lack of provisions, a council was held, and it was resolved that, in order to make it possible to hold this port longer, Don Fernando de Rivera, captain of the presidio [of Loreto], should set out with a strong force so that he might go to [Lower] California and also bring back the herd of cattle which was intended for this mission. The remainder of the expedition was to hold this important port, hoping that God might grant us the comfort of sighting some ship.
-- NUMBER 1-FIRST COUNCIL OF WAR OF THE LAND-EXPEDITION WHICH WENT IN SEARCH OF THE PORT OF MONTEREY. HELD ON THE 4TH OF OCTOBER, 1769.
-- Gentlemen:—To-day eighty-three days have elapsed since this expedition, in accordance with the royal order, set out under my command from the Port of San Diego, situated in latitude 33?, to proceed to Monterey, out destination, situated in latitude 37?.
-- Considering that the time we have been on the road has not only been sufficient but longer than necessary to reach that destination; and considering that, according to the indications which Cabrera Bueno gives in his account, it was inevitable that we should find it; [now] having examined [the country], expecting every moment [to come upon] the port, we have only found, as Captain Fernando de Rivera who went to explore declares, that what should be the Carmelo River is merely a gully, and that what should be a port is a small inlet, that what were [described] as great lakes are mere ponds, and that what should be a port is only a bay; [I am, therefore,] now disturbed in the hope of finding the port, seeing so great a stretch of level ground as lies before us, and [considering] that—if we are to believe the account [of Cabrera Bueno] —in order to reach the port it is necessary that we first come to the Sierra de Santa Lucía, a journey for which, I recognise, much time is required, —I have decided to hold a council with all my fellow officers that we may determine what is best for the service of their Majesties, and most consistent with our honor. I have also requested Fathers Gomez and Crespí to be good enough to attend this council.
-- I call your attention to the fact that we find ourselves to-day with eleven soldiers sick with the scurvy—of whom eight are disabled—and that the season of the year will naturally produce greater effects of this sort. The provisions are reduced to fifty sacks of flour, twelve packs of meat, and four of vegetables. I give this information in order . . . that with all the details before us we may be able to consult with greater intelligence. May God preserve you many happy years. October 4, 1769. Your affectionate and devoted servant, Gaspar de Portolá. Let us all subscribe our opinions one after another; and, if they so desire, the reverend fathers may do the same.
-- [Addressed] to the reverend fathers, Father Gomez and Father Crespí; Captain Fernando de Rivera; Captain Pedro Fages; Don Miguel Costansó.
-- Opinion of Don Miguel Costansó—In response to the letter written by the commander of the expedition he makes the following statement: In consideration of the fact that we have not come upon the Port of Monterey—as we all had expected [to find it] after crossing a mountain range which we firmly believed to be that of Santa Lucía, at the foot of which the port must be, according to the old accounts—this officer thinks that it is necessary to seek for the Port of Monterey farther on. At present, he thinks, they are in 36? 42´ [north] latitude. The Port of Monterey is said to be in latitude 37?, and it may be even higher. On this account it would be well to explore the coast as far north as latitude 37? 30´, and he hopes that by means of this endeavor they will either find the port, or be morally justified in asserting that it no longer exists. Miguel Costansó.
-- The vote of Don Pedro Fages—In response to the letter of the commander of the expedition [I say] that, as there is not the slightest doubt in my mind that the Port of Monterey lies behind us according to . . . Captain Fernando de Rivera y Moncada has explored, and that it does not lie in latitude 37?, according to the statement of Don Miguel Costansó, —in my opinion the coast should be explored as far as 37? 30´, and a little farther if possible, in order to reach the port and, if we do not find it, to establish ourselves in whatever place seems most convenient to the other gentlemen. Pedro Fages.
-- Opinion of Captain Fernando de Rivera y Moncada in response to the letter of the commander— [He thinks] they should devote four, six or eight days to rest-as much for the sake of the sick as that it was absolutely necessary for the saddle-mules—and that they then continue the journey in the same way as they had done heretofore. It was not his opinion that the camp should be continued here and that a party should go out to explore for a considerable distance, inasmuch as to do this he considered it necessary that [the party] should be sufficiently large to resist the natives in case of any danger, and as, on account of the small number of men, it was not possible to guard the camp, the mule-train, and the exploring party [all at the same time]. This [is his opinion], he says after having crossed a very high range of mountains which forced them to abandon the shore and the direction they were following; and after having reached the place where they find themselves; and after having explored and taken this range to be the Sierra de Santa Lucía; and having seen a point of pines, well wooded clear to the sea. He saw near the high range a gully with a moderate amount of running water; from this place it was probably a league and a half or two leagues to the point of pines, beyond which point there is only a bay which is quite exposed. From this he infers that the . . . places, suffer from a certain ambiguity, and that they had come far enough in search of the port [when they had reached] this point of pine, as from this they could get [a distant view]. This [argument is presented] in case we were to establish ourselves in some place, which, however, he did not consider advisable. Fernando de Rivera y Moncada.
-- Having heard and considered attentively all the opinion of the officers who are with me on this expedition, it is my vote that the expedition rest in this place for a period of six days, and that it should continue its march in quest of the Port of Monterey far as is humanly possible. In this case, a place will be selected to establish ourselves as well as possible and no long excursion will be undertaken inasmuch as in the going and coming much time would be lost. Gaspar de Portolá.
-- Conclusion of the council held on this date.
-- Vote of Don Miguel Costansó—He concurs in that, at the expiration of six days, the whole expedition set out together. Miguel Costansó.
-- Vote of Don Pedro Fages—He concurs in that, at the expiration of six days, the whole expedition set out together. Pedro Fages.
-- Vote of Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncada, second in command of the expedition—He agrees that the expedition rest for period of six days. Fernando de Rivera y Moneada.
-- Decision of the commander of the expedition—He votes and concurs with the others, in that the expedition continue its march at the end of six days. Gaspar de Portolá.
-- Vote of Father Gomez—He agrees that the expedition set out at the end of six days. Father Francisco Gomez.
-- Vote of Father Crespí—He says that he agrees in the words of the decision of the council. Father Juan Crespí.