Expanded Diary of Father Pedro Font
Colonizing Expedition, 1775-1776
Monday, January 1, 1776 SP -- I said Mass, and in it I said a few words to the people concerning the character of the holiday, exhorting them to renew their good resolutions, since we were now beginning a new year, etc. At daylight the ground was as white as if it had snowed, from the frost which fell early this morning. Because yesterday's journey was long and the cattle had arrived late, it was decided to do no more today than to cross the river, for although it is narrow it has a great deal of water, is very rapid, and has very high banks, as I said yesterday. Consequently the ford was repaired after Mass at the cost of considerable labor. About ten o'clock in the morning the courier who was sent on December 27 arrived with a reply from the mission of San Gabriel, a soldier from there, and seventeen saddle animals sent by the fathers to relive those of ours which were badly worn. They also brought the distressing news that the Indians of the port and mission of San Diego rebelled in the month of November, killing a friar and wounding the soldiers. Of this event I shall speak more at length later on, in its proper place.
The ford being arranged, at two o 'clock in the afternoon we began to cross the river; and in an hour it was successfully passed, halt being made on the other side near its banks. Most of the people crossed over on a bridge formed by a large cottonwood which had fallen and lay athwart the river. Near it was another cottonwood which the former expedition used as a bridge. This place is like all the rest, a fertile and beautiful country, with rose bushes, grapevines, blackberry bushes, and other plants which by their verdure are pleasing to the sight. In a word, all this country from the Puerto de San Carlos forward is a region which does not produce thorns or cactus. In fact I did not see in all the district which I traveled as far as the port of San Francisco any spinous trees or shrubs such as there are in the interior, except some prickly pears and some nettles which I saw near the port of San Diego; nor are any thorns encountered on the plants except on the blackberries and rose bushes. Finally, this country is entirely distinct from the rest of America which I have seen; and in the grasses and the flowers of the fields, and also in the fact that the rainy season is in winter, it is very similar to Spain.
Tuesday, January 2 SP -- I said Mass. We set out from the Santa Ana River at a quarter past eight in the morning, and at a quarter past two in the afternoon halted at the Arroyo de los Alisos, having traveled six leagues to the west-northwest. ?Six leagues.
The road is all very level except on leaving the Santa Ana River, where we crossed some long and low hills which, like all the rest on which were covered with good pasturage, both dry and green?a country very well suited for sheep and goats because it is very clean, without anything which might injure the wool. The sierras on the sides are those which I have already mentioned, and at the camp we were now nearer to the Sierra Nevada. In the morning the whole sky was very cloudy, and half way on the road a very fine gentle rain began to fall on us; but it was not very troublesome, though it rained harder as soon as we halted, and continued this way until late at night.
The Rio de los Alizos is so-called because so many sycamores grow on its banks, this being the only timber and firewood in all these plains. Its waters are crystalline, most beautiful and good. It arises in the Sierra Nevada, and regularly carries very little water, but it is permanent. On its banks I found a very tender and good plant somewhat similar to lettuce, although it had a thinner and longer leaf. I gathered a goodly quantity of it and took it to the tent of the commander. We ate it for salad and all liked it very much. There are other pretty plants, rosemary, etc. After leaving the valley of San Joseph I heard some birds somewhat larger than sparrows singing along the road. They say that they are Larks but they do not look like them to me. Their song is not long but is sweet. From here forward I afterwards saw a great many of these birds in all places. On the trunk of a large sycamore near which we halted, under an IHS which on the last expedition was carved by the commander, I left carved with the point of a knife the record of our coming, with this inscription: IN THE YEAR 1776 CAME THE SAN FRANCISCO EXPEDITION
Wednesday, January 3 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo de los Alizos at a quarter past nine in the morning, and at three in the afternoon, having traveled some six leagues to the west-northwest halted on the banks of an arroyo which joins others and forms the San Gabriel River. ?Six leagues.
All the road is very level. About a league after leaving camp we went through a pass or opening formed on the right by the skirts of the Sierra Nevada and on the left by some low hills which turn to the west, and at whose foot there is a lagoon when it rains. The other time they called this pass the Puerto de los Ossos because here they saw a number of bears. Then one enters a country very level in all directions, which we found very green in places, the flowers already bursting into bloom. The earth is very moist, not only because here the rainy season is in the winter as in Spain, but also because of the great fogs which I have noticed falling in the night when it is fair. The rains are fine, gentle, and continuous, and without thunder. In some places live oaks are seen, and apparently in the sierra there are more of them, together with pines. Before reaching the camp site we entered an open grove of various kinds of small trees. The river flows from the Sierra Nevada and runs almost west. Its waters are very crystalline and beautiful, but small in quantity, although it is seen from the width of its bed that when it is in flood it carries a great deal of water.
Having learned that the mission of San Gabriel had been moved to the place where it had its fields, somewhat closer to the Sierra Nevada than formerly, halfway on the journey we left the old road followed the last time, and, opening a new road, directed the march to the new site; but because the saddle animals were tired we did not reach the mission today. This morning there was a heavy fog, and soon it rose in clouds which covered the Sierra Nevada, to which the clouds withdrew, leaving us a very clear day. Although we were so close to the Sierra Nevada we did not feel very much cold these nights. Perhaps because the sea is not very far away the temperature is mild, for although it is quite cold it is not so piercing as the weather which we experienced on the Gila and Colorado rivers.
Thursday, January 4 SP -- I said Mass. We set out from the Arroyo de San Gabriel at nine o'clock in the morning, and at eleven arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, indicated on the map by the letter B, having traveled some two leagues to the west-southwest, inclining somewhat to the west. ?Two leagues.
The mission of San Gabriel is situated about eight leagues from the sea in a site of most beautiful qualities, with plentiful water and very fine lands. The site is level and open, and is about two leagues from the Sierra Nevada to the north, which from the pass of San Carlos we had on our right as we came along. It appears that here ends the snow but not the sierra, which is the same Sierra Madre de California; for it continues far into the interior, and according to all the signs is the same continuous sierra which Father Garcés crossed in his journey hither and called the Sierra de San Marcos. On setting out from camp we crossed the bed of a large river which was without water and has a thick grove of small cottonwoods. This is the river which runs to the old site of the mission, where there is always plentiful water.
At the mission we found the captain commander of Monterey, Don Fernando Ribera y Moncada, who, on account of the uprising of the Indians of the mission of San Diego, who destroyed it and killed their father minister, Father Fray Luís Jaume, had come from Monterey to go to the presidio, arriving at this mission on the night of the 2d. Shortly before we arrived Commander Ribera and the father minister of the mission, Fray Antonio Paterna, came out on the road to welcome us. Our coming was a matter for great rejoicing by everybody, the guard of the mission welcoming us with a volley, and the two other fathers who were here, Father Antonio Cruzado and Father Fray Miguel Sanchez, with many peals of bells and with special demonstrations of joy.
Friday, January 5 SP -- We remained here to rest, and the commanders conferred concerning the matter of the rebellion of the Indians of San Diego.
After dinner I went with Father Sanchez to see the creek from which they made the acequia for this mission of San Gabriel, and with which it has the best of conveniences. For, besides the fact that the acequia is adequate, and passes in front of the house of the fathers and of the little huts of the Christian Indians who compose this new mission (who must be some five hundred souls recently converted, counting large and small), it dominates all the plains of the immediate vicinity, which are suitable for planting or for crops, and for this reason the fields are near the pueblo. This mission has such fine advantages for crops and such good pastures for cattle and horses that nothing better could be desired. The cows which they have are very fat and they give much and rich milk, with which they make cheese and very good butter. They raise hogs and have a small flock of sheep, of which on our arrival they killed three or four wethers which they had. Their flesh was especially good, and I do not remember having eaten fatter or finer mutton. They also have a few hens.
The mission has plentiful live oaks and other trees for building timber, and consequently there is abundant firewood. It lacks only lime, which up to the present has not been found; but perhaps by careful search it will be found and will make possible the improvement of the buildings, which at present are partly adobe, but chiefly of logs and tule, and which for this reason are very insecure and exposed to fire.
At present the buildings consist of a very long shed, all of one room with three divisions, which serves as a habitation for the fathers and for a granary and everything. Somewhat apart from this building there is a rectangular shed which serves as a church, and near this another which is the guardhouse, as they call it, or the quarters of the soldiers, eight in number, who serve the mission as guard; and finally, some little huts of tule which are the houses of the Indians, between which and the houses of the fathers the acequia runs.
In the creek celery and other plants which look like lettuce, and some roots like parsnips, grow naturally; and nearby there are many turnips, which from a little seed which was scattered took possession of the land. And near the site of the old mission, Which is distant from this new one about a league to the south, there is grown a great abundance of watercress, of which I ate liberally. In short, this is a country which, as Father Paterna says, looks like the Promised Land, although the fathers have suffered in it many hardships and toils, because beginnings are always difficult, especially in lands where formerly there was nothing; and besides, they suffered want because for two years the supplies failed them.
The converted Indians of this mission, who are of the Beneme tribe, and also of the Jeniguechi, tribe, appear to be gentle, friendly, and of good hearts. The men are of medium stature, the women being somewhat smaller, round-faced, flat- faced, and rather ugly. The costume of the men in heathendom is total nakedness, while the women wear a bit of deer skin with which they cover themselves, and likewise an occasional cloak of beaver or rabbit skin, although the fathers endeavor to clothe the converted Indians with something as best they can.
The method which the fathers observe in the conversion is not to oblige anyone to become a Christian, admitting only those who voluntarily offer themselves, and this they do in the following manner: Since these Indians are accustomed to live in the fields and the hills like beasts, the fathers require that if they wish to be Christians they shall no longer go to the forest, but must live in the mission; and if they leave the ranchería, as they call the little village of huts and houses of the Indians, they will go to seek them and will punish them. With this they begin to catechize the heathen who voluntarily come, teaching them to make the sign of the cross and other things necessary, and if they persevere in the catechism for two or three months and in the same frame of mind, when they are instructed they proceed to baptize them.
The routine for every day is as follows: In the morning at sunrise Mass is regularly said; and at it, or without it if none is said, they assemble all the Indians. The father recites with all of them the Christian doctrine, which is concluded with the Alabado, which is sung in all the missions and in the same key. Indeed, the fathers sing it even though they may not have good voices, since uniformity is best. Then they go to eat their breakfast of atole, which is given to everybody, making the sign of the cross and saying the Bendito before eating it. Afterward they go to work at whatever they can do, the fathers encouraging them and teaching them to labor by their example. At noon they eat their pozole, which is made in community for all, and then they work for another spell. At sunset they again recite the doctrine and conclude by singing the Alabado.
The Christians are distinguished from the heathen in that an effort is made to have them go somewhat clothed or covered, so far as the poverty of those lands will permit. And in distributing the pozole is not taken of the catechumens unless it be that they are given some of what is left over. If any Indian wishes to go to the mountain to see his relatives or to hunt acorns, they give him permission for a specified number of days. As a rule they do not fail to return, and sometimes they come bringing some heathen relative, who remains for the catechism, either through the example of the others or attracted by the pozole, which they like better than their herbs and the foods of the mountain; and so these Indians are usually caught by the mouth.
The doctrine which is recited in all the missions is the short one of Father Castañi, followed with complete uniformity, no father changing a single word or being permitted to add anything to it. It is recited in Castilian even though the fathers may be versed in the native tongue, as is the case at the mission of San Antonio, whose father minister, Fray Buenaventura Sitjar, understands and speaks well the language of the Indians of that mission. Nevertheless the doctrine is recited in Castilian, and although the father translated the doctrine into the native language, the most that is done is to recite once each day in the vernacular and once in Castilian, thus conforming with what so many times has been ordered since the first Mexican Council, as is set forth by Senor Solórzano, to the effect that the Indians shall be taught the doctrine in Castilian, and that effort shall be made to have them speak Castilian, since all the languages of the Indians are barbarian and very lacking in terms.
In the missions an effort is made to have the large unmarried girls sleep apart in some privacy. In the mission of San Luís I saw that a married soldier served as the mayordomo of the mission, thus giving the father some relief, while his wife looked after the unmarried girls, they being under her care and calling her maestra. In the daytime she had them with her, teaching them to sew and other things, and at night she locked them in a room where she had them secure against any insult, and for this reason they called them the nuns. This appeared to me to be a good arrangement.
In short, this method which the fathers observe in those new missions appeared to me to be very good; and I may note that what is done in one is done uniformly in the others, which is what pleased me most. The mission of San Diego is an exception. Here, since it is the poorest, and the country, because of its few villages, does not permit it, there are no common fields or even private ones, nor is pozole distributed there in common. There the Indians have been permitted to live in their rancherias with the obligation to come to Mass on Sundays in their turn, the same as is done in Baxa California; and this is the reason why this mission is so backward, aside from the fact that its Indians are the worst of all in those new missions.
Saturday, January 6 SP -- I said Mass, and afterward another was sung as an act of thanksgiving for our arrival, I accompanying with my instrument. At the altar Father Paterna sang the Mass, and after the gospel he preached a sermon on the mystery of the day, very good and very much to the point.
Commander Ansa offered to accompany Commander Ribera to the port and presidio of San Diego with twenty soldiers of the expedition, to cooperate in the punishment of the rebellious Indians, if this should be necessary in order to pacify the country. He decided to set out for San Diego on the next day, and I accompanied him, the people and the rest of the expedition remaining at San Gabriel until we should return. This journey had been decided upon since yesterday, but they said nothing to me, nor let me know to see whether I wished to go or to remain here, and I learned something about it only this morning through a servant.
At night, then, a little after vespers, Commander Ansa came to tell me that the next day he was going to San Diego, for which reason he was delivering to me the key of the astronomical quadrant, and to tell me that if I needed anything I should request it of the commissary, Don Mariano, who was remaining. I replied that it was very hard that I should be the last one to know of his decisions with regard to halting or marching, and that he never took me into account for anything, although I had said to him at San Miguel before we set out that during the whole journey I should not leave his side, and should accompany him wherever he might go, since this was my wish; but since it was his wish to leave me here I would abide by the decision and would have patience, as I had done on other occasions.
Thereupon we two alone engaged in a long conversation. It was in terms of friendship and peace; but I spoke to him very plainly about his manner of procedure with me, and of the slight attention which he had paid to me hitherto, as if I had come on the expedition by grace of his favor and not by superior order, the same as he.
And as to the key of the quadrant, I declined to accept it, since he had not delivered the instrument to me from the beginning as he was ordered, and had even forgotten that I came with the duty of making observations. I told him I was able to do this only when he wished, as if he controlled everything, and I was only causing him hindrance and trouble; and so he was doing well to leave me behind in order to free himself of such rubbish. The commander tried to mollify me as best he could; and finally, besides the fact that he thrust the key upon me almost by force, so that I had to receive it in order not to appear stubborn and ill-mannered, he concluded by several times begging my pardon for whatever offense he might have given me, excusing himself by saying that it was inadvertently on his part, and that if I wished to go to San Diego he would be very glad to have me, and so I should think it over tonight and decide in order to advise him in the morning.
I replied that I decided nothing, and did not need to think concerning the matter, for my wish was to accompany him in everything and to all places, as I had said from the beginning, except on the campaign if perchance he should go out against the rebels of San Diego; and so I would conform to whatever he wished, for I would not be missed by the people of the expedition who remained at San Gabriel, as they had in that mission three ministers for whatever they might need. With this we agreed that I should go and carry the quadrant to observe the latitude of that port. And the commander was now so changed that the fathers of San Gabriel noticed the difference from that very hour, he comporting himself with me thenceforward somewhat more affably and very differently, although without losing his seriousness and his superiority. I note this down in order that it may be seen that with such gentlemen it is well to speak plainly when the occasion arises; for if it is done properly and in appropriate terms, usually nothing is lost thereby. On the contrary, many times much is gained, for submission and dissimulation never pay, since as a result they usually become more haughty.
Sunday, January 7 SP -- I said Mass, and then exhorted the people who remained at the mission, telling them all goodbye and charging them all to observe good conduct in their proceedings, in order not to set a bad example to those new Christians, and encouraging them to have patience in their trials, etc. Afterward arrangements were made for the journey, preparing, what was necessary for those who were to go to San Diego, namely, Commander Ribera,with ten soldiers, Commander Ansa with twenty soldiers of the expedition, myself, and an empty pack train to bring provisions.
We set out from the mission of San Gabriel at noon in light order of marching, and a little after seven at night we halted on the banks of the Santa Ana River after fording it, having traveled some ten long leagues, five to the southeast, three to the east-southeast, and the last two almost due east with some turns to the northeast. ?Ten leagues.
The road is almost entirely level, except for some hills about halfway on the journey, and all very green and covered with grass and various herbs, among which is found a species of very small wild onion which in shape and taste is the same as the garden onion, and some of which I ate at the mission of San Gabriel. After going a league we passed the site of the old mission, where the huts were still standing. At three leagues one crosses the San Gabriel River, which here carries plentiful water and runs almost straight west to the sea. Afterward follow the hills, and in one of their canyons there is a little well. Then follows the level land clear to the Santa Ana River, which here is wide and has a great deal of water, and runs to the sea about to the west-southwest, although apparently, from what I saw next day, without reaching the sea it forms great lagoons near the beach. The Santa Ana River is so-called because the expedition of Commander Portolá reached it on Santa Ana's day, and he gave it that name, it being he also who gave the rest of the names all along the road from San Gabriel to Monterey. The mission of San Gabriel they called San Gabriel de los Temblores because the earth trembled on the day when they arrived at that site.
Today the weather was clear, but the northwest wind, which is prevalent here and on these south seas, was somewhat unpleasant. Night fell, calming the wind but very cold, and we had very little firewood because all the country and the river is greatly lacking in trees, which is the "but" of this country.
Monday, January 8 SP -- We set out from the Santa Ana River at seven o'clock in the morning, and, having traveled some fourteen leagues, at a quarter past four in the afternoon we halted at the Arroyo de Santa María Madalena, this being the name given it by the Portolá expedition. It is also called La Quema, because of a somewhat dangerous fire which occurred in the grass patches, caused in part by accident and in part by the heathen. Going about five leagues to the east-southeast, we came to the place called Los Ojitos, where we ate a bite of breakfast and drank some water. Then we went four to the southeast, winding around in all this stretch on account of the hills of this sierra, of which I make mention on December 30 and 31, until we came to El Trabuco. They gave it this name in the first expedition because at this place, where there is a small arroyo, they lost a blunderbuss. The rest of the way was to the southeast by south, over country fairly level like a wide canyon, in the middle of which we encountered some heathen Indians hunting mice and gathering tunas in a small tuna patch which is there. Ordinarily the tunas are very bony. They offered one to me and I ate it. All the rest of the way consists of hills with ups and downs. From the top of the hills one sees the ocean in places, and also the island called Santa Cathalina, which is some six leagues out in the sea, and the bay of San Pedro, which is directly opposite the mission of San Gabriel.
Near this place of La Quema, between it and the sea, is the site of the new mission of San Juan Capistrano, which they were beginning to establish when it was abandoned because of the uprising at San Diego two months ago ?Fourteen leagues.
Tuesday, January 9 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo de la Quema at half past seven in the morning, and at five in the afternoon we halted at San Juan Capistrano River, having traveled some fourteen leagues. The route was very winding, with many turns on account of the hills; but to me it appears that the general direction was halfway to the east-southeast and the other half to the southeast. The road is all hills and valleys, and for this reason very rough, although without stones. The land is very moist and green, and several arroyos are found, although without water, for they contain water only when it rains. After going seven leagues we came to a small lake in which there is an arroyo. They call it Las Flores, and it appears to be permanent. After going two leagues more, at two in the afternoon we came to the Santa Margarita River, where we saw many white geese which had come perhaps from the Laguna de San Joseph, of which I spoke on December 30. Before reaching the camp site we passed near another lake that was fairly large. At the camp site there was scarcely any water although the river usually carries a great deal when it rains. During the night we were very cold for want of firewood, which is the thing most lacked in all these lands and hills. We were so near the sea that all night we heard the sound of it, and on the way it was frequently seen from the top of the hills. Likewise, from a height we very clearly saw the rocks which form the Puerto de San Carlos, through which we passed on December 27, and also the Sierra Nevada.?Fourteen leagues.
Wednesday, January 10 SP -- We set out from the San Juan Capistrano River at half past seven in the morning, and at half past three in the afternoon halted at the village of La Soledad, having traveled some twelve leagues in various directions, about three leagues to the southeast, two to the south-southeast, four nearly to the south to San Dieguillo, and the rest of the way to the south-southeast, the last part being almost to the southeast. ?Twelve leagues.
As soon as we left camp I saw a village of Indians downstream. About six leagues on the way is the place called Los Batequitos, a small watering place somewhat apart from the road on the side away from the sea. Two leagues farther on is the village of Indians and the place called San Alexos, and before it and beyond it are encountered two estuaries of the sea. Afterward the road enters some hills covered with a scrubby growth composed of rosemary, small live oaks, cactus and similar growths, and from them it descends to the arroyo and the site of San Dieguillo. The road is broken, the same as yesterday, all hills and valleys, ups and downs, without trees and lacking in firewood; but the country is green like the rest. with a great deal of grass. It is seen that when it rains this road is very heavy and almost impassable, because it is miry on account of the water carried by the many arroyos which we now found dry.
The village of La Soledad belongs to the mission of San Diego. In it there are some Christians whose governor showed me three wounds, telling me that they were arrow wounds which the wild Indians had inflicted during the uprising, but afterward I learned that they were bullet wounds which he received in the fray because he was among the rebels as an accomplice in the affair, as he was, with all the rest. He remained with us for a while and some Indians brought firewood, but Señor Ribera showed great distrust of them, and he appeared to be afraid. After supper the Indians came from fishing, shouting "Cassau! Cassau!," their name for all kinds of fish, and they brought to the tent for us some very fine sardines which they had just taken from the water. They were so large that they looked to me like salt sardines which in Spanish they call arenques. I immediately took a few and at once set about cleaning them, and we tasted them. I ate one roasted on the coals and three fried, and they were very savory. Señor Ansa ate only part of one because it was now late.
Thursday, January 11 SP -- We set out from the ranchería of La Soledad at half past seven in the morning, and about half past ten arrived at the presidio of San Diego, indicated on the map by the letter C, having traveled four long leagues, the two first almost south-southeast with some declination to the south, and the remaining two to the southeast and south-southeast, during most of these last two leagues following the beach of the Puerto Anegado. ?Four leagues.
Great was the joy felt at the presidio on the arrival of Commander Ribera and Commander Ansa with the soldiers, on account of the reinforcement that came to it with this troop. The presidio of San Diego is situated in a very bad place on a hill dominated by others, small and uneven, at the foot of which flows the river, which is dry most of the year, and from which is obtained by means of the wells dug in the same sand hardly enough water for drinking. The river comes from the Sierra Madre de California, which is not far distant. Flowing from nearly northeast, and bending around the hill, it empties into the port, which is distant from the presidio some two leagues to the south.
Here we found Father Fray Vicente Fuster, the father minister of the destroyed mission of San Diego, which was situated about a league up the river, and Father Fray Firmín Lazuén and Father Fray Gregorio Amurrio, the two father ministers of the mission of San Juan Capistrano, which they were beginning to found near the site of La Quema, abandoning it on the uprising of the Indians. They and all the presidio welcomed us with especial satisfaction at our arrival. On the shores of Puerto Anegado and about a league from the presidio is the village of La Rinconada. This presidio has no advantages for raising crops nor, consequently, has the mission any. For this reason very few Indians are maintained in it. They permit most of them to live in their villages, although they maybe Christians, as is done in California Bava; and for that reason they communicate freely with the heathen, and are even more heathen than Christian.
With this attack and destruction everything was left very poor and backward. At the mission, which was established up the river, they were beginning to raise some crops. With this in view, and in order not to live in such discomfort at the presidio, the fathers had separated the mission from it, for, not to mention its lack of water, the presidio is not capable of any expansion. But on account of what happened they returned to take refuge at the presidio, where at this time they were suffering many hardships and necessities for lack of buildings and habitations, and even more for lack of provisions, for in the store there was nothing more than a little rice and some wormy maize.
The harbor is very good and safe, being formed on the land side by a low tongue of land which comes from the Sierra Madre and runs from east to west; and on the sea side by a low sierra which runs from southeast to northwest to the Puerto Anegado. This port sometimes communicates with the harbor, leaving almost an island the sierra whose point or extremity is called the Punta de Guijarros Near this point is the entry or mouth of the harbor, which is very large, of great depth, and almost round. In front of the mouth of the harbor, at a distance of some six leagues, are seen some islands called Los Martires or Los Quatro Coronados; and to the west-northwest, far away at a distance of about fifteen leagues from land, is seen the rather large island called San Clemente.
On the land there is plenty of grass, although not so good or so abundant as in other places; and the site is very short of firewood and very much shorter of timber. In fine, the mission of San Diego is the worst of all those which the fathers of San Fernando have in these new establishments, and likewise its Indians are the worst. They belong to the Quemeya tribe, and are very much like the Jequiches, both in their perverse intentions and bad hearts, as well as because they are of degenerate bodies, ugly, dirty, disheveled, filthy, ill-smelling, and flat-faced. They showed what they were in the first entry made into those lands by the expedition of Commander Portolá, for a short time after the fathers established that mission they revolted and wounded Father Fray Juan Vizcaino in one hand by an arrow; and they have always shown that they are no good.
Friday, January 12 SP -- In the morning I awoke somewhat badly off from my infirmity; but the day was rather mild and not like yesterday, when as soon as we arrived a north wind came up that was so violent that it was a very extraordinary occurrence and lasted until nightfall. I observed the latitude of this presidio and I found it to be without correction in 32° 38', and with correction in 32° 44 1/2' and so I say: at the presidio of the port of San Diego, January 12, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun 35° 24'.
This port abounds in fish of various kinds called by the Indians cassau, and including sea bream, flounders, mojarras, viejas, large sardines, and a great many others, and all very good. The Indians fish for them in their little tule canoes with hooks and harpoons, and since they eat a great quantity and without regard to cleanliness, they are even more ill-smelling than others. And they are so ungrateful toward the fathers and so ill-mannered that in order to obtain fish the fathers find it necessary to pay for them with beads or maize, etc., for which they ask; and they ordinarily sell only what they have left over.
Saturday, January 13 SP -- I climbed a hill near the presidio, and from it got a better view of the harbor, the sea, and the islands, of which six or seven small ones are seen nearly to the south, and that of San Clemente nearly to he west. The commanders began to make investigations concerning the recent uprising, the destruction of the mission, and the murder of its father missionary, Father Fray Luís Jaume, examining some petty Indian chiefs who were imprisoned in the presidio, five in number, whom they had been able to capture and taking testimony of their misdeeds.
I relate here the story of the uprising and the fatal event as it was told to me by Father Fray Vicente Fuster, noting that since this presidio and mission of San Diego has no advantages for raising crops, for it has scarcely water enough for the most necessary uses, although the ministers baptized many reduced heathen, more than five hundred, I believe, they permitted them to live in their villages with one who knows how to say the prayers, in order that they might pray, and with the obligation that the villages should come in turns to Mass on feast days, according to the practice in California Baxa. As a result the Christians were such only in name, and were more or less the same as the heathen, being so new in Christianity, living in such liberty, and being so little instructed, because the fathers were unable to do any more.
The Indians, then, discontented with the subjection, as is usually the case with Indians, and perhaps desiring to steal what there was in the mission and take what they wished of the things which a short time before had come in goodly supply, like house spies agreed with the heathen of the sierra to destroy the mission and the presidio. And when they saw the small forces of the Spaniards divided they thought they could succeed, especially when the few soldiers went as guard for the new mission of San Juan Capistrano, which Father Fray Firmín Lazuén and Father Fray Gregorio Amurrio went to found near La Quema, of which I make mention on the 8th.
The heathen, then, arranged to divide themselves, some to attack the presidio and others the mission. The latter were not to begin the attack until they should see the presidio on fire, for since the distance is short it would be possible to see the fire or the light. At the presidio the soldiers were so careless that the Indians would have succeeded in the attack and would have destroyed everything if they had executed the deed as they had planned. The presidio is overlooked by a hill very close by, where they were to give the war cry, and, taking possession of the cannon or swivel guns, set fire to the buildings, an easy thing to do because they were of tule. But God willed that the Indians at the mission should not wait for the signal, for they began to attack and burn the mission before the presidio was fired. As a result those who came to the presidio feared that they would be discovered; so they immediately withdrew to join those at the mission, although the soldiers were so sleepy that they did not hear the shots or the war cry, or see the light of the fire which was in plain view.
The sentinel on duty at that hour in his declaration excused himself by saying that it was true that he saw the light, but thought it was the light of the moon. But it is to be noted that on that night the moon was one day before full moon, and consequently, at the hour when it happened the moon was in the west, whereas the light of the fire must have been to the east of the presidio, for the mission was in that direction. But it is nothing new for soldiers to fulfill their obligations thus; for it is usually this way on these frontiers of Sonora, where occur many disasters from the Apaches, who take the soldiers of the presidios by surprise, careless, and unprepared, or sleeping, or gambling.
Well, then, on November 5, 1775, about one o'clock at night, the mission of San Diego was attacked by all the Indian mob appointed to assault it, and by those who joined them?those who were to attack the presidio but did not do so because they had not awaited the signal, as I said above. Although it is known that some forty villages assembled there, uniting for this attack, it was not possible to ascertain the exact number of the enemies. It was very large, however, for even though there might not be more than ten Indians for each village there would be four hundred, whereas many villages might send twenty or thirty combatants. All of them belonged to the Quemeya and Jecuiche tribes, although it may be that some others joined them.
Since it was night and the soldiers of the guard of the mission were in the quarters sleeping (for thus they performed their duty there, those evil vagabonds!), the Indians first stole what they wished from the church, breaking in pieces with a stone the chest of the vestments, which they carried off, and likewise two images of the Purissima Concepción and Señor San Josef, dispatching their women to the mountain with the plunder. Then taking some firebrands from the guardhouse, they began to set fire to the same guardhouse, to the church, and to the houses of the fathers which, being built of tule and logs, easily caught fire.
On hearing the noise Father Fray Luís Jaume left the house and then he realized that an uprising was taking place. Of it they had given him warning several times previously, but he always refused to believe them, thinking that it would be impossible that his Indians would do such a thing to him because he loved them greatly and favored them in every way he could. Indeed, he even became angry with the Indian who last told him of it, threatening that if he ever came again with such a tale he would order him punished. But it is not good to have too much confidence in the Indians, for in the end they are a faithless, ungrateful people, and without consideration.
Father Jaume then went to the arroyo where the Indians were. They seized him, and having taken off his habit and his small clothes, leaving him with only a reliquary which he wore around his neck, they wounded him to their complete satisfaction, driving into his body more than twenty darts or arrows, and then with the sticks like a sickle or saber which they use and with stones they pounded his head and face so that he was recognized as the father only because of the whiteness of his body and somewhat from his tonsure or crown.
Of the four soldiers of the guard who awoke with the firing of the guardhouse, one who was without his leather jacket went out to see what was the matter, and he and another immediately were wounded and made unable to take arms, although they did not die. The other two fortified themselves near the house between some adobes and some bales which Father Fray Vicente Fuster dragged out from among the flames. He had taken refuge among them, and with his habit and mantle protected the bag of powder from the shower of burning brands. It was a great prodigy that the powder did not take fire, and that although they shot darts into his mantle he did not receive any other wound than a blow from a stone on his back. In the combat died the carpenter and the blacksmith, who were artisans maintained at the mission and paid by the king. The two soldiers defended themselves and succeeded in placing some very good shots.
The fight having endured for a long time, God willed that at daybreak this multitude of Indians should withdraw without being able to overcome two soldiers. This is proof enough of their degeneracy and that they would not have made such havoc if the soldiers had been awake. In short, they withdrew, fearful that with daylight help would come from the presidio. But the garrison, far from sending aid, did not even know what had taken place until the dead were brought to it.
Against the four soldiers of the guard, either because they were wounded in the fray or because Commander Ribera was very partial to them, no charge was made on the ground that they had been asleep. I have already stated above the excuse given by the sentinel, saying that the light which he saw looked to him like the moon. When he was asked why he did not recognize the difference, seeing that the light came up from the east, he replied that he did not notice that, because when he was put on sentinel duty he was charged only with looking after the prisoners, and since he was facing them and watching them, and therefore the light was at his back, although he saw it at one side, he did not turn to see where it came from. This alone would be good proof of the care with which the soldiers fulfill the orders given them, even if we did not know in other ways the little attention which they pay to fulfilling not only incidental orders like that, but superior orders, and orders very important and sometimes of great consequence.
But when men desire it so, everything can be arranged; and so this defense appeared to Señor Ribera to be sufficient, and he exonerated the sentinel and did not even arrest him, but charged the uprising to the lieutenant of the presidio, Don Antonio Francisco Ortega, and, to his bad conduct, although in the matter he was not at all to blame, for at the time he was occupied in the founding of the mission of San Juan Capistrano. But since he was on very good terms with the fathers, he was very much disliked by Señor Ribera, who pays more attention to the soldiers than to the fathers. And so on this occasion there was opportunity for passions to rise. That Señor Ribera likes the soldiers better than the fathers is proved by his own words, for, having received in Monterey the news of this uprising, he went immediately to the mission of Carmelo to report to the father president. Entering, he spoke to him in this way:
Father President, I have just received an ominous report from San Diego which obliges me to set forth immediately on the road for that place, for it is that the Indians have rebelled, burned the mission, and killed Father Fray Luís. But one thing pleases me greatly, and that is that they did not kill a single soldier, thank God.
This same thing I heard said on the road, and he very well confirmed it afterward by the efforts which he made in order that the soldiers might be cured, especially the one who was most seriously wounded. He was accustomed to say that he would be very sorry if he should die; and at times, speaking of the Indians and of what had happened, he would say,
Thank God, thank God, I have the consolation that thus far they have not killed any of my soldiers.
This serves as an illuminating example of what ministers ordinarily suffer with the lords who rule in these remote lands and who have no one to check them, as has happened to those poor friars in the midst of such trials, the greatest one being the little regard shown for them by Commander Ribera.
In the morning Father Fray Vicente Fuster withdrew to the presidio with the dead and wounded, and with the spoils of the fire, which was such that everything was reduced to ashes, and that the censer, chalice and the wedding coins (I saw them), were melted and fused. And so this mission remained destitute and the three fathers in very grave need of everything; for they had left only the ashes of the mission, and of their supplies, books, papers, etc. For everything was consumed and the fathers were left attached to the garrison of San Diego, which is a presidio of misery and unhappiness.
It is to be noted that although many of the rebellious Indians were heathen, many also were reduced Christians. And it is known that these mountain Indians, who are very similar to those whom we saw from San Sebastián forward until the mountain was crossed, are the most degenerate people of all in that country. And I would almost dare to say that just as the Sierra de California, because of its unfruitfulness and rockiness, looks like the wastebasket of the world, so the Indians who inhabit it are the dross of human kind.
Sunday, January 14 SP -- I said Mass. Another was sung in honor of the sweetest name of Jesus for the successful pacification of the rebellious Indians. At this I sang, accompanying myself on a bad spinet which was left at this mission by Father Fray Angel Somera when he was at this presidio.
Monday, January 15 SP -- The investigations concerning the matter of the uprising and of the rebellion which occurred among the soldiers were continued. may note that besides the five petty Indian chiefs who were imprisoned in the presidio, they arrested two of the mission who went to join the heathen, who planned to make a third attack on the presidio. The lieutenant ordered them whipped, and the blows were so hard that one of them died and the other was very sick. Father Fray Firmín undertook to cure this one, doing it with great charity and patience; but the Indian, little thankful and less attentive, finding himself now somewhat better, disappeared today, and they say that he went to his village.
Tuesday, January 16 SP -- I said Mass. Last night after dark Commander Ribera dispatched the sergeant of the presidio with fifteen soldiers and an Indian interpreter to go to the village of San Luís, fall upon it this morning at daylight, and capture some revolted petty chiefs, headmen and Christian apostates whom he knew to be there from a report given by an old Indian woman. This afternoon it was noted from the top of the hill of this presidio that in the sierra many smokes were being sent up, a method by which the Indians communicate with each other when they have any news.
Wednesday, January 17 SP -- The weather was fair in the morning, but in the afternoon the sky became overcast with a great fog which arose from the sea and formed in it since morning. For this reason we suspended the journey which we wished to make to see and examine the site of the destroyed and burned mission. Although I felt somewhat relieved of the flux, I myself was very much afflicted by some very painful little sores which came out on my mouth and tongue, scarcely permitting me to talk or eat except with great difficulty. It is the disease which in California they call fuego marcial.
Thursday, January 18 SP -- The day continued very damp and dismal from the fog, and I expelled much humor from my sore mouth and tongue without relief, and talked with great difficulty. In the afternoon came a report that in the Puerto Anegado a whale had become beached, and later on that there were two; however, they were not whales, but two large fish about three varas long. It is to be noted that on those coasts it regularly happens each year that some whale is beached. When this occurs the Indians notify each other immediately and assemble like flies to eat it, and there they remain on the coast until they finish it. And since it usually is so fat and they so vile, on eating it they oil and smear themselves with the fat, which is foul, and then they are so malodorous that with the bad scent which they exude they are a veritable pest.
Friday, January 19 SP -- The day continued very foggy and moist, and I sick. At night the sergeant and the soldiers came with four heathen malefactors under arrest, and with the report that the rebellious Indians and their petty chiefs had gone up into the sierra, where, they said, through the interpreter, they even had intact the images and other things which they stole, but that among them an apostate Indian called Pablo, head of the rebels, was impudent, making fun of the sergeant, trusting to the roughness of the sierra up which they climbed. From this it is surmised that those Indians will be difficult to subdue.
Saturday, January 20 SP -- The day was dreary and cloudy, like the preceding ones. The commanders began to examine the new prisoners, to get the information which they desired to enable them to compose and secure the country, giving them as a welcome fifty lashes each. In the afternoon I saw a vivid illustration of the burning of the mission of San Diego. By accident fire was set to a fair-sized tule hut which served as a forge, and it was not possible to put it out, try as hard as they might, although all the people rushed to the spot; and then I realized, as I had already known, how dangerous are buildings of tule or grass and logs. For this reason, when a mission is founded it is of first importance not to be content with any sort of building or hut, as were the fathers of those missions, although they could do nothing else for lack of preparations which ought to have been made for building and other things from the beginning. On the contrary, at the outset a church and suitable habitation for the ministers should be provided, with at least a building well made and safe from fires; for, being among heathen and recent converts, who must be regarded as enemies, one can not feel secure. Moreover, there is not lacking at times some malicious person who may take advantage of the occasion, seize a brand, and in one night destroy the mission and everything else; and this does not take into account the accidents which may happen to such buildings.
Commander Ribera continued with the inquiry and investigation concerning the uprising of the soldiers of this presidio who had rebelled against their lieutenant, Don Antonio Francisco Ortega. The cause of this rebellion was that when he informed them that someone must go to found the mission of San Juan Capistrano, and indicated those who were to go, although they did not flatly refuse, they manifested great opposition, either because they are a lazy and vagabond people, or because they concluded that in the mission they would suffer greater hunger and need than in the presidio. For the supply which was prepared and arranged as a start and beginning of the mission was so small that, subtracting the provisions which they ate during the days while they were there, it amounted to only four pack loads, including vestments and other things of the church and house; for I saw them in the presidio where they had deposited them in the corner of a little room.
Here in passing I wish to note what a great inconvenience it is to go to found a mission without the necessary supplies. From so-doing it results that it is ill-founded and in a bad manner, and with double labor. Since the ministers in such circumstances need more of the help and favor of the soldiers and on the other hand have nothing with which to reward them, the little regard in which the soldiers hold them is a natural consequence. And it usually happens in such a case that in many years the mission makes little or no progress, and even is exposed to the risk that in the end, because ill-founded, it will be lost, as happened with this one of San Juan Capistrano; and that in order to save a few necessary expenses at the outset, afterward it is necessary to spend twice as much and with less fruit. All this is taught by experience in those missions, where the friars, although they desired to have what was necessary, and to have adequate provisions made for the founding of the missions, nevertheless, in their anxiety to have missions there, contented themselves for the time being with such arrangements as were made for them, all of which were directed toward saving expenses. And for this reason in more than seven years they have made little progress, and have suffered extraordinary trials and need. That the provisions both for the buildings as well as for the promotion of the missions were meagre is a matter of great certainty. And as proof of it, without attempting to specify all cases, it is sufficient to know that as a beginning of stock only nine cows and one bull were sent to each mission.
The lieutenant, then, considering that to found the mission it was necessary to build at least a hut which would serve as a church and a habitation for the fathers, and seeing that there was no one to make it except the soldiers, informed them that they must work at the building; but this they flatly refused to do. The lieutenant now told them that to go there and not work on the building was to do nothing, because merely to be there in the field in no way founded the mission; and so, since the fathers offered to labor, he also would labor, and with their example it would be necessary for everybody to labor. The soldiers objected, and the lieutenant proceeded to command them on the point. Then they refused obedience, saying to him that the king did not pay them for that, thus refusing to recognize him as lieutenant. Finally he made them some threats, but afterward composed the difficulty as best he could, and in the end went with the most docile of the soldiers.
This insubordination or rebellion Señor Ribera began to investigate as soon as we arrived at the presidio; but in the end, as a partisan of the soldiers and an enemy of the lieutenant, he failed to declare a single soldier guilty or to punish anybody, attributing the guilt in the case to the lieutenant, who was inclined to favor the fathers, and characterizing his conduct as bad; for in all places the ancient proverb of Spain is verified, Alla van leyes a do quieren reyes.
Sunday, January 21 SP -- I attended Mass, which I was unable to say on account of my ill health, and likewise because the fathers had so little wine that they only said one on each feast day, taking turns; but I gave them an alimeta which I carried, to last them a little longer. It began to rain last night and continued to do so all this day, but gently and with thunder, which is very seldom heard there. The rainy season is in the winter, the same as in Spain, and usually lasts from November to March; and in that time the roads become very bad from the mudholes and mires which are formed.
Monday, January 22 SP -- This day was very damp and cloudy, although it did not rain; and I was somewhat better from some remedy which Señor Ortega, the lieutenant of the presidio, got for me.
Tuesday, January 23 SP -- I said Mass. The weather continued cold and it rained almost all the time. They have labored during these days to secure the presidio, which was so dilapidated that there were neither separate quarters nor guardhouse for the soldiers, nor even a complete stockade for its security and protection.
Wednesday, January 24 SP -- During these days the investigations concerning the uprising, etc., were continued. The weather was cold and misty, but I continued to improve, although I was somewhat troubled by the sores on my mouth and tongue.
Thursday, January 25 SP -- This morning an Indian reported that a whale was stranded on the beach; and since the morning was fair, and we desired to see that marine monster, after eating we went to the beach to see it, Commander Ansa and the four fathers, with an escort of soldiers and the storekeeper, Don Rafael. But we made the journey, which was a jaunt of two long leagues, in vain, because the thing which had stranded was not a whale but another species of fish, some three varas long. The Indians fell upon it immediately to cut it up into meat, so that when we arrived at the beach there remained nothing but a piece of rib bone. We therefore returned to the house without accomplishing the purpose of the journey. On this occasion I saw the spouts or streams of water which the whales blow up through their noses. 0f these there are many in those seas, and they are called ballentos. Likewise I noted the peculiarity of that beach, which for a long stretch is not of sand but entirely of loose medium-sized, and small stones, such as are found in rivers. For this reason it is not possible to walk on it; and the sea made such a noise with the waves which continually break on that infinity of stones that when nearby we could not hear or understand each other even though we talked loud.
At nightfall Commander Ribera, with great secrecy and dissimulation, dispatched the sergeant of the presidio with fifteen soldiers and a heathen Indian, one of those whom they brought on the 19th, to go to the village of San Luís to capture some Indian malefactors who were there, falling upon them in the morning.
Friday, January 26 SP -- Perhaps from yesterday's journey, which was rather strenuous, the affliation in my mouth was worse and I was very sick with the fuego marcial. At nightfall the sergeant and the soldiers returned with nine Indian prisoners, of whom two were petty chiefs, and with some women, among them being one from the presidio who had fled a few days before. They captured them without resistance, although the Indians of the village at sight of the soldiers seized their arms, but seeing that the number was large they turned to flee and took refuge in the sierra, with the principa1 chiefs called Carlos and Francisco. With the Indians the sergeant brought half of a stole, an almaizal and a piece of palio with its lining torn out. Señor Ribera then began to examine the prisoners. Most of the malefactors he ordered secured in good prisons, and as a welcome ordered them all given their quota of fifty lashes Although it was not possible to ascertain where they kept the images of the Purissima Concepción and San Joseph which they carried off, from the prisoners the commander learned that another principal chief had gone to the village of Soledad and immediately he dispatched the sergeant and soldiers back there to capture him in the morning.
Saturday, January 27 SP -- The weather continued fair; but I was worse with the disease of the mouth, and my tongue was swollen so that I could scarcely talk, even with difficulty. At midday the sergeant and the soldiers returned without any prize, because the Indian whom they went to seek had fled the night before
Sunday, January 28 SP -- Nothing in particular happened I awoke without any relief for my tongue and mouth, for I could scarcely eat or drink anything except liquid, and that with difficulty But in the afternoon I had an evacuation; and thereupon the swelling of my tongue went down and I was very much relieved, although the sores were still painful. From this I was confirmed in the suspicion which I had already felt that my disease of the mouth had been due to constipation.
Seeing that the two commanders did not go out on a campaign, and that in so many days the only expeditions made were those of the sergeant, mentioned above, and not having heard them discuss the question as to whether they would go out or not, this night I asked Señor Ansa what he had decided to do. I showed him that by staying in the presidio without going out on a campaign and terminating this matter of the uprising, aside from the fact that we were eating the little which the fathers had, and thus causing me sorrow, the days were passing and we still had before us the long journey to Monterey. To this Señor Ansa replied that up to the present Señor Ribera had not talked to him about going out on a campaign; and so he had decided, if nothing else offered itself, to depart on the Sunday following, which was a week from this day; and leaving the people of the expedition at San Gabriel we would go in light order of marching to Monterey, to explore the river called the very large river of San Francisco. I asked the commander this question for this reason: Although we had been running more harmoniously since the 6th, and in San Diego we had both slept in the same little room (more from necessity than from friendship, 'tis true, since there were no other rooms), I never so much as merited that perhaps by way of conversation he should communicate to me his plans or his intentions, although he talked about them with others; whereas at times I desired to know them, if not out of curiosity, for my own guidance and in order not to be unprepared.
Monday, January 29 SP -- Nothing in particular occurred, and I continued with the improvement which I began to enjoy yesterday afternoon.
Tuesday, January 30 SP -- Today passed without incident. I wrote a letter to the reverend father guardian of my college and another to the father president of Sonora, Fray Juan Díaz.
Wednesday, January 31 SP -- The day passed without any special occurrence. I saw one of the Indian prisoners whom they had whipped, and noted how ill he had become from the blows. In fact, on this occasion I witnessed and learned from what has been experienced in that district of San Diego that it is a very bad climate for curing sores and wounds. The Indians even from childhood are affliated with sores, scabs and pimples, as if they were rotten, these things perhaps coming from infected blood and from the dampness. I noticed the same thing among the heathen Indians of the sierra whom I saw. This, and the bad complexion due to the anger which the prisoners showed, and their being unused to such blows, explains perhaps the bad result that black and horrible sores had formed on the body of the Indian whom I saw, and who came to see if the fathers would give him a remedy.