Diary of Francisco Garcés

Exploratory Expedition, 1774

Note. The source used for the Spanish transcription of Garcés' 1774 diary did not include his entries for May, June, and July.

Thursday, June 2, 1774 -- On the 2d of the month I set out alone with the idea of returning at once to the lagunas if they would not go with me. In a short time a Jalchedun came on horseback and took me to a watering place three leagues to the north with some turns to the northeast. We took a siesta, and then, about four o'clock in the afternoon, we set out in the same direction. He stopped and then turned back with great speed, or on the gallop. Seeing myself alone and on a road very thickly grown and with many trails, I continued until sunset toward the north. Then, as a goodbye, I ascended a high hill to look around. I saw that the sierra which begins apparently near San Antonio and runs to the northwest, makes a turn to the north and comes to the north-northeast and does not run any further. In the vicinity of the sierra I saw much water, groves, and large beaches, which must be those of the Colorado River. To the northeast and east there is seen a very large opening which indicates level land. To the south lay the Sierra de San Hermenegildo, and to the southeast that of San Phelipe.

Father Juan had ordered me not to put myself in manifest danger, and not being accompanied by Indians it is very doubtful if I lacked this. And considering that in a government so active there is no need for doing any more foolish things than those already done, I returned to the Jalchedunes. The sierra on the other side of the river I called Corpus Christi.

My return to the Jalchedunes was very much celebrated, because they had concluded that I must have gone out to their enemies and that these must have done me some injury. They added that a white man (he must be a deserter from Californias) had gone toward the north and not returned. They also told me that they had friends on the same river, but that they were very far away, and because of the Cuirsniurs it was necessary to travel through lands lacking in water, in order to flee from these Cuirsniurs.

An Indian made me a very furious harangue like the dancers of the sierra. I having arrived at a village, a very old woman sang with various ceremonies and then began to weep bitterly, and the Jalchedunes said that she was from there toward the west. I heard two Indians talk who had come from the northwest of these Jalchedunes. They spoke a different language and had different arrows from those which I had seen. The Jalchedunes said they had still other friends, and so I am not surprised that cotton blankets like those of the Pimas should have reached the missions of Monte Rey or that they told the soldiers of Monte Rey that those who made them were distant five days, for the soldiers heard this at those great lakes which they say are about thirty leagues from San Luís.

Among these Jalchedunes I also saw better fields, and recognized in the tribe some advantages which they have over the Yumas. The majority of them go dressed with blankets and blue cloth from Moqui and from the Pimería. They plant cotton, have better arrows, and the climate is cooler and better. I observed that in the season of such heat it was necessary to have shelter at night, and for this reason they have better and larger houses than any I have seen. As soon as I arrived they gave me another horse which, because it was not very gentle, I did not accept because I was afraid to mount it. Since they call the principal Indian Gedecoche and called me the same, I saw that this was due to the mistake of the Pima interpreter. They are very friendly with the Cajuen tribe, and I saw many Indians from the Laguna de San Matheo and farther down who still remembered the Jesus María.

Finally, the great assistance given me by these Indians, the joy which they manifested on my arrival at any of their houses, the care to give me abundant provisions when I set out to return, are worthy of my greatest appreciation. They furnished me some servants to return with me, but since I had nothing with which to repay them (a thing the most embarrassing for any one who receives favors from such people), I chose one who alone accompanied me to the Tutumaopas near Agua Caliente and who served me as cook. He carried a firebrand in one hand all the way, and it did not go out. In the other hand he carried a stick with which to drive the horse, which could not hurry for lack of shoes, especially where there were stones. And besides all this he carried a jug of water on his head, enduring thirst in order that I might not suffer, and all this with a smiling face. Who will say that this Indian is a savage? And who will not praise a service of such qualities?

Sunday, June 19, 1774 -- Before reaching the Gila I traveled four leagues on foot, and afterward the Opas took me from the village to that of San Simón y Judas de Uparsoytac of which I make mention in the diary of the year '70. From this pueblo, leaving the road taken by the commander, I ascended the river to the north-northeast, and saw the admirable advantage which it has for taking out as much water as might be desired and making most splendid fields. After traveling six leagues on the 19th of June I arrived at Tugsapi. Here they said that the best road to the Jalchedunes led out from there, and that they went in three or four days according to their pace.

Monday, June 20, 1774 -- On the 20th I traveled three leagues to the north and reached Tucabi. On the 21st, after traveling two and a half leagues, we had left behind the people of La Pasión de Tugabi. As far as these villages the river carries much water, receiving it at this season almost entirely from the Rio Azul and the Salado.

Wednesday, June 22, 1774 -- On the 22d I traveled in the morning two leagues to the northeast, and in the afternoon one to the southeast and four to the south-southeast. On the 23d I went half a league southeast and encountered the people of Subtaquisson, who were gathering saguaro, a fruit very much like the pitaya. On the 26th, with five leagues to the southeast, I passed through many pastures and reached the villages of La Encarnación del Subtaquisson. There are three pueblos with many people. Doubtless with its pastures, which are scarce on the Gila, this is the best site. On the 27th I went to the large pueblo called San Seraphin de Nacub, which is distant a league, following the current of the river, and on the other side. This pueblo was not seen by the expedition. On the 28th I set out and, traveling a little more than another league, I came to Tuburs Cabors, which is on this side and near the river and is very populous. I had never been in this town, and they told me that I must give it the name of some saint, so I called it San Andrés, because its villages are abandoned and attached to San Juan Capistrano de Uturituc, where I went on the 30th with a little more than a league's travel.

Thursday, June 30, 1774 -- This village must have nearly a thousand souls. The governor said to me, "Father, yesterday we arrived from a campaign and the horses are now very much used up. Rest seven days and afterward you shall go out accompanied by myself and my children. You see that there is plenty to eat, and we will bring you fish," and they also brought some game. The excess of these Indians over all the rest along the river, their situation so advantageous for assisting in the subjection of the Apaches, and for direct transit to Monte Rey and New Mexico, their requests for fathers, their urgent offering of their children for baptism, and the measures which I presume are about to be taken concerning the moving of the presidios, without doubt make these Indians the most meritorious of the piety of the king.