Expanded Diary of Father Pedro Font
Colonizing Expedition, 1775-1776
Wednesday, May 1 SP -- I said Mass. Señor Ribera and Señor Anza continued the same as yesterday, writing and sending dispatches to each other. At night I opened a conversation with Señor Ribera, who was still stiff and not speaking to me, concerning his refusal to furnish Father Garcés what he had asked him for, in this way: It happened that Father Garcés went out to that mission of San Gabriel accompanied by two Jamajab Indians, intending to go to San Luís and from there farther inland, but was unable to do so because Señor Ribera refused him what he asked for, as Father Garcés tells in his diary on the 24th of March, where this incident is related in full.
At the beginning of supper we ate some lettuce, and Father Paterna remarked that I would remember San Gabriel because of the good lettuce that I was eating. I replied,
In a few days, at the Colorado River, I shall indeed remember this place very well.
And will Father Thomás have no lettuce? said Father Sanchez.
I replied, "Where will he get it?"
Well, did they bring no seed? he answered.
No, I replied. Then Father Paterna said,
Perhaps Father Garcés will already be there when you men arrive.
I replied that I could not say, and Don Fernando continued saying that Father Garcés must have had a hard time of it on the road which he took. Thereupon I remarked to him,
No doubt.
Now that Señor Don Fernando had entered the conversation I said to him,
Please tell me what reason you had for refusing Father Garcés what he asked you for.
Thereupon Father Paterna, who was a very warm partisan of Señor Ribera, changed his manner, for in every situation and occurrence there is no lack of opposing views, since each one thinks in his own way. Don Fernando now said,
Your Reverence, Father Garcés asked me for saddle animals, one or two soldiers as an escort, and provisions, but I refused to furnish them because I had no orders from the viceroy to give them to him, since that order was sent to Señor Anza.
I replied that it seemed to me that it was not necessary to have an order from the viceroy for such trifles, since whoever rules in things of first importance rules in the accessories, and the viceroy did not need to spend his time in ordering this and that and the other, especially when they are matters of small importance and incidental to his general orders, and are understood to be included in his dispositions, and can be left to the chiefs for execution. At this he said to me,
I had no saddle animals. Those of the expedition were not in my charge and so I could not dispose of them. Could your Reverence dispose of this mission, which is not in your charge?
Well then, I replied, "we will leave aside the saddle animals. But perhaps you could have granted him the other things."
He replied: "The father asked me for one or two soldier guards, but these were not enough, and I could not give him more because I did not have them. Your Reverence knows that even to carry dispatches four or five soldiers are sent, and if something had happened to the father with so small an escort I should have been responsible."
I replied that he would not have been responsible, just as he was not responsible because the father had started on his apostolic peregrinations without any escort.
For, I said to him, "you are not unacquainted with the spirit of Father Garcés."
Yes, he is unacquainted with it, Father Paterna then said. "Don Fernando does not know the temperament of Father Garcés."
Yes, he does know it, and very well, I replied. Hereupon Don Fernando remarked that it was true that he had heard of his bravery and his spirit, and he continued saying,
I said to the Father, 'your Reverence had better wait for Captain Anza, who will soon be here, and consult with him as to what can be done in those matters.' I replied,
Well this would not have helped Father Garcés at all, because if he had awaited us either he would have had to come out of the country with us, or we should have had to leave him in the country.
Father Paterna replied, "Don Fernando did right in not giving him what he requested, for the viceroy does not order Father Garcés to go into these interior regions." I said,
The order of the viceroy says that if the father wished he might remain at the Colorado River to get acquainted with the tribes down the river and up the river. The reason why he came here was that the heathen Indians were afraid to accompany him up the river without making a detour, because a tribe hostile to them intervened. And when the father wished to journey to the west to see if from there he might discover a road to Monterey as was desired, the Indians offered to accompany him to another tribe. And because the father travels according to the wishes of the Indians who guide him, they brought him more, as you gentlemen see. But even if this were not the case, it seems to me that neither the viceroy nor the king is so stingy and mean as to refuse him the few provisions which he asked of you for two heathen Indians who were with him.
He replied that he had very few provisions and could not give them away. I retorted that provisions for two Indians did not amount to much, perhaps not more than a bushel of maize.
For you know that Father Garcés is satisfied with very little, and can even live on the grass of the fields. He replied,
For this reason I told him that he should ask Father Paterna for what he might need, and that the king would pay for it later.
Father Paterna then said, "This is not necessary. And what is this all about? Was not Father Garcés given everything that he needed? If Don Fernando did not give him provisions, it was in order that he might not be responsible if anything should happen to Father Garcés on that journey, and in order not to be a party to any injury which might befall him. He did quite right to refuse what he asked for."
Well, if this is so, I replied, "then your Reverence is responsible for anything that may happen to Father Garcés."
And why? he asked.
I replied, "Because if, in order not to be responsible, Señor Don Fernando did right to refuse him the provisions, your Reverence who gave him provisions is responsible, for by doing so you coöperated in this journey."
Thereupon Father Paterna, greatly disturbed, said, "Oh, well, let us drop this," and rising from the table he asked Don Fernando if he wished to go to his room.
But Don Fernando did not move, quite out of keeping with other times when, after finishing supper, he would rise up at once and leave. Now, on the contrary, he continued for more than half an hour talking about his shortage of provisions and of what hardship would be suffered at San Diego if the bark should not come soon, etc.
In order not to embitter the affair further, I refrained from mentioning to him the other matter, which Señor Ribera himself confessed in the letter that he wrote to Señor Anza, and which even to Father Paterna, according to what he told me, looked very bad. This was that he had ordered the arrest and banishment of some heathen Indians who had come from the Colorado River to that mission, as is stated also by Father Garcés in his diary for the 24th of March. But this order was not carried out, for God willed that when it was about to be executed the Indians had already departed. But I saw that nothing was to be remedied or gained by touching on this delicate matter, and that I ran the risk of speaking plainly to him to no purpose, since he was so well satisfied with himself and his conduct (in fact, he said that he had his credit well established in Mexico), and especially at this time when Father Paterna was so openly in his favor, and the two other fathers did not say a word because they were afraid of him. But I have written down here all this conversation, in order to show how men argue when they wish to maintain a position, for they can find reasons for any proposition, whether it be sound or specious, and it is certain that in any matter they do not lack partisans and confederates, for Quot homines, tot sententiae.
Thursday May 2 SP -- I said Mass. After we reached this mission Señor Ribera sent a dispatch to Señor Anza asking him, for his guidance, how long he would remain here, because he was writing to Mexico. Señor Anza replied that he would remain here three days (which were up this afternoon). Señor Ribera said he thought this would give him time to finish what he was writing to the viceroy. But today when the time for starting arrived he sent a dispatch to Señor Anza telling him that he had not yet finished, but saying that he need not wait on that account, and might as well start, for tonight or in the morning he would send him the letters by some soldiers, who would overtake him on the way. Therefore Señor Anza decided to start without waiting any longer; and so we said goodbye to the fathers, but not to Captain Ribera, for he did not come out of his room to bid us farewell or permit himself to be seen, but remained still writing and dispatching, according to what he said (but this was not so), the letters which Señor Anza was to carry to Mexico.
We set out from the mission of San Gabriel at four o'clock in the afternoon and at half past five arrived at the arroyo of San Gabriel, where we had camped on January 3, having traveled two leagues. Our party consisted of the same persons that I mentioned on the 14th of April, who, together with the boy Pedro, of San Luís, made thirty persons in all. The baggage consisted of twenty pack loads, and the caballada, including mules and horses, comprised eighty-six animals -- Two leagues.
Friday, May 3 SP -- I said Mass. At half past six in the morning we set out from the arroyo of San Gabriel, and at half past eleven arrived at Arroyo de los Alisos, where we took a siesta until half past two in the afternoon, and at a quarter to six in the afternoon we halted in a plain about two leagues before reaching the Santa Ana River, having traveled some ten leagues. ?Ten leagues.
Since the soldiers whom Señor Ribera said he would send with the letters did not overtake us last night, nor this morning either, I said to Señor Anza on the way,
You need not expect any such letters, for I have understood that he intends to send them by way of California, because he does not wish you to carry them. I even know that he said, 'Captain Anza would like to carry my letters to the viceroy, but he won't get a chance to.'
As soon as we halted Señor Anza and I set to talking about our experiences with Señor Ribera, and I said to him,
If the messenger does not come, as I suspect, or does not bring letters for the viceroy, as I predict (for he thinks that thereby he would be doing you a great favor, and he is not disposed to do you favors), then I shall be confirmed in my suspicions that Señor Ribera opened the letter from Father Vicente which was sent to the father president, and was delivered with the envelope slit; and since a thief thinks everybody else is like himself, he would expect you to do the same with the letters which he might entrust to you, thinking you would be as bad as he. My reason for thinking so is a story which I have heard, and now as a friend I wish to report it to you. It is that Señor Ribera is writing against you to the viceroy; and for this reason he is not going to entrust the letters to you, and so you must provide yourself with everything that you can assemble concerning past happenings, etc.
He replied to me that for this very purpose he was keeping all his letters, papers, and dispatches, intending to present them to his Excellency, and, in fact, he formed of all of them and their replies, arranged in order, a protocol like a judicial act, and it would not be very advantageous to Señor Ribera, either.
We were engaged in this conversation when the courier sent by Señor Ribera arrived with two letters, one for the father guardian of the College of San Fernando and another for Señor Anza, but none for the viceroy- a classic piece of stupidity with which Señor Ribera crowned the work of the expedition and his most rare proceedings. To Señor Anza he wrote that he was not sending the letters for the viceroy because when he was about to seal them he lacked a paper which he had mentioned in the letters, containing an account of affairs at San Diego concerning the arrest of the Indian Carlos, and that lacking this document the letters could not be sent. He added that the document must have been left at San Diego, for although he had done his best he was unable to find it, and so he had decided to go at once to San Diego, whence he would send his letters to the viceroy by way of California. Below the signature, in a postscript, he requested that he be remembered to the viceroy, and that Señor Anza should say for him that he was not very well.
All this was said and done just as I had predicted to Señor Anza. That lost paper was only a pretext, for to the viceroy it was of little or no consequence to know at this time the story of his excommunication. The thing of principal importance for his Excellency to know was how he had received the people of the expedition, with all its appurtenances of horses, cattle, etc., and what disposition had been made with regard to the establishment of the port of San Francisco, so greatly desired in Mexico and even more in Madrid. But since he was so hostile to this, who knows what he might write, especially since Señor Anza had declared himself opposed to his opinion? For these reasons, and after what had happened, I had always assumed that he would not deliver his letters to Señor Anza, because he did not trust him, and especially after what I learned at San Gabriel and have here related.
Saturday, May 4 SP -- Very early in the morning Señor Anza dispatched the soldiers who had come with the mail, sending to Señor Ribera a letter appropriate to his own, and written at the end of it. At the same time he sent back to him the letter to the father guardian of San Fernando, saying that since he was carrying no letter from him for the viceroy he did not wish to carry a letter for any private individual. He wrote another letter to Lieutenant Moraga, telling him what had happened, and giving him instructions for his guidance in case Señor Ribera should be pronounced crazy, according to the signs of dementia which he had given by his indiscreet conduct. I likewise wrote a letter to the father president, reporting the same thing to him and telling him of everything that had happened since we set out from Monterey; and another to Father Paterna sending him a plan which he had asked me to make him for a church and a house which he wished to build. With this was concluded our farewell to Monterey, and the key was turned on the story of all the experiences of the expedition with Señor Ribera.
In the morning the sky was very cloudy and it was raining a few drops, and although afterward it became fair, a little before starting three or four very loud thunder claps were heard, a rare thing, for thunder is seldom heard in those regions. We set out from the plain at seven in the morning and at a quarter past eight arrived at the Santa Ana River, where we took a siesta until two in the afternoon; and at a quarter past six in the afternoon we halted at a pass which opens into the valley of San Joseph, having traveled some nine leagues. We found all this country dry and with very little grass and no water or firewood. The Sierra Nevada was now without snow, except a very little which was seen in the canyons, for it had now been melted by the hot weather.-Nine leagues.
Sunday, May 5 SP -- I said Mass. At six in the morning we set out from the pass, and at ten arrived at the arroyo of San Joseph, where we took a siesta until half past two in the afternoon. In this stretch we saw at the foot of some rocky hills a village which on going we had not seen, and whose Indians we called Los Danzarines because of the ridiculous gestures which they make when they speak vigorously. Although armed they went scurrying among those rocks as soon as they saw us. At seven in the afternoon, having traveled some thirteen leagues, we halted in the canyon of San Patricio near the source of its arroyo, a little before reaching the place where we halted on going on December 27. We found this canyon thickly grown with trees and stonier than when we went, and in two places there were stretches so filled with rocks, looking as if the rains had brought them down from the hills, that with a few more they would have cut off our passage. From this I inferred that the road through that canyon of San Patricio may be closed by the rains and not be permanent -- Thirteen leagues.
Monday, May 6 SP -- We set out from the canyon of San Patricio at a quarter to seven in the morning, the day being cloudy and misty at times, and with a northwest wind so cold that we felt it more now than when we went. For this reason we halted at the flat near the Puerto de San Carlos, in order to eat and warm ourselves, for we were now half-frozen. This cold lasted only until afternoon, for on the other side of the summit of the Sierra Madre de California the climate is immediately different, since the Sierra Madre divides the climates as well as the land, although the wind continued very stiff all night. And so we said goodbye to the land of Monterey and the wind which reigns there, and at four o'clock in the afternoon, having traveled thirteen leagues, we halted at the Foot of the willow on the Arroyo de Santa Catharina, where we had camped on the 23d of December.
Among the cliffs which form the Puerto de San Carlos we saw many Indians perched among the rocks, but although we called to them nobody would descend. At the camp site also there were many Indians, but as soon as they saw us they scampered up the cliffs, loaded with their children and belongings. These are the unhappy, dirty people who live in this sierra of whom I wrote on going, and because of their bad countenances I do not know of anything to say about them except that they appear to be sons of fear and darkness -- Thirteen leagues.
Tuesday, May 7 SP -- At daybreak a furious wind was still blowing, and with the dust it caused us great annoyance, especially early in the morning when we were leaving the canyon. And it continued this way all day, being welcome only because it was fresh, as a result of which we did not feel the heat. The Indians did not permit themselves to be seen any more, although the soldiers of the horse herd said that at night they were climbing about the hills, perhaps watching to see if they could steal something or do some other damage, for they are very vicious. They are of the same "Mau" as San Diego, whose Indians to say "Yes" say "Mau" like cats.
We set out from the Foot of the Willow at five in the morning and at a quarter past nine halted at San Gregorio, where we took a siesta until two in the afternoon, and where we found so little water that not all of the animals were able to drink. At a quarter past seven in the afternoon, having traveled some fourteen leagues, we arrived at San Sebastián, where we had camped on December 13th. All of this country is bad, sterile, without grass, or any useful thing; indeed, it is all sandy or sand dunes, with rocks on the hills, as I said on going -- Fourteen leagues.
Wednesday, May 8 SP -- I said Mass to our patron San Miguel Arcangel, in order that he might take us successfully out of the sand dunes ahead of us which we had to cross. Señor Anza decided to traverse these plains and sand dunes in a straight line, to see if we could come out at the Cerrito de San Pablo. I told him that this was impossible because it was very far away, and we would expose ourselves to hardship, and I even demonstrated the distance to him with the compass. But he did not come down from his opinion, which was that at the most it would be twenty or twenty-five leagues away, until just before starting, when the experienced soldier who was to go as guide said that he would not dare to guide us to that hill, because it was very far away and we would have trouble in such bad country, without pasturage or water, as a result of which we might suffer some delay; and that it would be better to come out at Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, to which he was not afraid to guide us and where we would arrive in the morning. So it was decided to cross the plains and sand dunes ahead of us as directly as possible and come out at Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, without going down to the Pozos de Santa Rosa, in order to save some distance. We therefore set out from San Sebastián at noon, and at half past ten at night we halted in the middle of the dry plain without pasturage or water, having traveled fourteen leagues, the first three almost to the east and the remaining eleven to the east-southeast and part of the way almost due southeast. ?Fourteen leagues.
Day dawned without wind and very hot, as we might have expected and as is usual in that country. The Indians of San Sebastián were affable and pleased to see us, although they are not of a very good disposition. Three of them accompanied us today, but two of them turned back, only one arriving with us at the Puerto de la Concepción. On the road after traveling about two leagues we found a well of water with its little tule and carrizo. The water is fresh but savors greatly of marsh. A league farther on we found a little well of cold water, but it is not possible to drink it, because it puckers the mouth, having much vitriol. Near this well we found another one of water which boiled with great force, and so deep that it's bottom could not be reached with a lance, and it was not possible to drink because the water was hot and very salty. Footnote 435] And this is all the water we found in all this stretch. The road is without sand dunes, but we crossed a piece of uneven country, with what we called almondigones, very tiresome, and of miserable and sterile lands. And this night the animals made their supper off small trees, and very few at that.
Thursday, May 9 SP -- We set out from the Llano Seco at half past four in the morning and at a quarter to one at night arrived at Laguna de Santa Olalla, having traveled twenty leagues, one to the east-southeast, ten to the southeast with some stretches to the south-southeast, and to the south and the east, and finally, now striking our outgoing road, two to the east-southeast, making thirteen leagues to Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, where we arrived at one in the afternoon, finding the water as red as if it had vermilion, very salty, and worse than on going, and without any carrizo for the animals to eat, because on going they ate it all up. It was therefore decided to go forward to the lake in order not to have to camp here over night. So we remained only until half past five in the afternoon, to rest a while and to wait until the heat of the sun should pass. -- Twenty leagues.
Friday, May 10 SP -- To the camp, which was the same one where we halted on December 6, many Cajuenche Indians came to see us. They were very good natured and brought maize, beans, calabash in dried strips, which in Sinaloa they call bichicore, and péchita and tornillo ground and made into cakes. We set out from the Laguna de Santa Olalla at a quarter to four in the afternoon and at a quarter past seven, having traveled some five leagues, we halted at the Rancherías del Cojat, where we had camped on December 5. As soon as we halted the Indian relative of Palma who went out to welcome us on the Gila River visited us very well pleased, and with him came several Indians -- Five leagues.
Saturday, May 11 SP -- We set out from the Rancherias del Cojat at a quarter to five in the morning, and at eleven arrived at the Puerto de la Concepción, on the Colorado River, having traveled some eight leagues.( ?Eight leagues.
The road was very crooked and somewhat different from the one taken on going, because the river had now risen greatly and a large portion of its bottom lands were flooded. In all the villages the Indian men and women came out to greet us with great pleasure and joy at seeing us, and some of them accompanied us all the way. One of them made an effort to give my mule something to eat, gathering grass and putting it in the mule's mouth, and so it was necessary for me to stop to thank him. At other times, in order not to delay me he went ahead very close to the mule carrying a bunch of grass in his hand behind him, and another did the same, giving him tornillo to eat. Others went ahead playing and running with their long sticks and wheel.
Reciprocal and great was the joy which I felt on seeing Father Fray Thomás Eixarch, so contented and safe in this place, living with such satisfaction among so many heathen, who are very much attached to the Spaniards and deserving of appreciation and esteem, especially Captain Palma.
This Puerto de la Concepción, situated a little below the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is a place where some small hills of moderate height form a small pass through which the Colorado River, after spreading out through these plains (for when it is flooded it is leagues wide) flows in a very narrow channel and after emerging again spreads out. Therefore this site affords a very pleasing view, and is the best place I have seen on this river for a settlement, because it is near the river and yet is free from its inundation's however high the river may rise. 'Tis true, the site is so limited in extent that on the small and somewhat uneven mesa which it forms there is room for only the church and a few houses. However, at the foot of this little mesa there is a great plain, also free from the floods of the river, in which there is room for a large settlement.
Here we found Father Fray Thomás Eixarch, who had come to live at this place with Captain Palma, because it is better than the one a league up the river where we left him on going, and likewise because he could not remain there when the river was in flood. We expected to find Father Fray Francisco Garcés at this place also, but he was not here nor had Father Fray Thomás, his companion, had any word of him since he set out up the river for the Jalchedunes.
The last news we had from Father Garcés was on the 15th of April, through a letter which the father himself wrote to Commander Ansa from the mission of San Gabriel, where he spent Holy Week early in April. He went there, as I understood, for the reason that, having gone with the Jalchedunes and encountered the Jamajá tribe, they welcomed him and offered to accompany him to another tribe. But because a hostile tribe intervened, it was necessary to make a long detour in order to go to the other tribe mentioned; and such was the detour that he came out at the mission of San Gabriel, accompanied by two heathen Indians of the Jamajá tribe. In his letter he said that it was necessary for him to return to the Jamajá tribe, and that if from there he should learn that he might find something of importance he would go forward, but otherwise he would return to the Colorado River, where he would await us in order that we might all return together.
When we arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, the fathers there told us that when Father Garcés departed, in speaking of his journey, he said that if he should find Indians who would accompany him (and he did not anticipate much difficulty in his project) his plan was to go inland to explore a road until he should come out at New Mexico. When we reached the Puerto de la Concepción we heard a somewhat confused report that Father Garcés was among the Jalchedunes. Therefore the commander at once sent thither an Indian interpreter with a letter telling him of our arrival, and that we should continue our journey within three days, which would give him time to come if he were there. But at the end of three days Father Garcés had not arrived, nor likewise the messenger, nor were we able to obtain any further notice of him in the course of more than three months which had passed. From this I inferred either that Father Garcés had found a road and means to go to New Mexico, as he desired, or, on the other hand, that he had encountered some great mishap in his apostolic wanderings, since he was now traveling somewhat ill, if indeed he had not died or Indians had not killed him.
I may note that when Señor Ansa dispatched the interpreter with a letter, he told him that if he did not find Father Garcés, but found his animals, he should bring them, as he did, not thinking that Father Garcés might be near there or farther inland, and that when he returned he would need them, as indeed happened. For here ends the kindnesses of Señor Ansa, and these are the favors which he says he is always showing the fathers. This I learned for a certainty, because the interpreter himself told me of it when he returned. I asked him why he had brought the animals, leaving the father destitute. He replied that he could not do otherwise, because he was a servant, and Señor Ansa, his master, had so ordered him. He told me this in the presence of Señor Ansa, who did not contradict him.
Father Thomás told us that Captain Palma was determined to go to Mexico with us, having entertained this desire ever since he told him of the fiesta which is held in Mexico in honor of the most Holy Virgin of Guadalupe, as the father himself says in his diary on December 12. For before this he had not thought of such a thing, and even less talked with Captain Ansa or anyone else concerning this matter. We deliberated whether or not it would be well to take him, and whether any disturbance might arise among the Yuma tribe, or on the river, during his absence. Señor Ansa today at first pointed out some objections to taking him, but after we had talked among ourselves concerning the matter he agreed to take him if Palma would first propose it to him, this being considered wise in case of so long a journey, in order that he might not be ignorant of anything, and that he might not think they were deceiving him. And so it was done as I shall relate in the next day's entry.
Father Thomás also gave us a report of how he had fared on the Colorado River during all this time of our absence; and of what he had observed there; and since the father kept his diary there, in order that I may overlook nothing I am inserting here a copy of it made by him, for the time from the 4th of December until the present day, the 11th of May inclusive. Copied literally it is as follows: [Father Eixarch's diary is printed elsewhere].
Well then, Señor Ansa wrote the letter which he wished to send to Father Garcés, and he read it to us very respectfully and affably, although he said nothing to us about his plan for sending to bring the animals if the father was not there. Indeed, with me he had observed great affability ever since the tilts with Señor Ribera, and in San Gabriel he even did me the honor of showing me all the writings and dispatches of Señor Ribera and all the replies and letters which he wrote to him, perhaps because he had no one else there with whom to talk about those things, and saw that I was on his side; for in truth those dirty hands appeared to me very bad. But later he ceased that affability and all that affection which he had manifested for me; then he stopped at nothing and I ended out of favor with him, as I shall relate.
Sunday, May 12 SP -- I said Mass. The message which I mentioned yesterday was sent by an interpreter to Father Garcés, and arrangements were begun for crossing the river, which was now much swollen but very placid in its current. During the time that we were here I noticed that the river rose three or four inches every day, but very gradually, as if the rise came from the melting of the snows; and that it carried a great many trees, and that its waters were very turbid.
Captain Palma, as I noted yesterday, said that he wished to come with us and go to Mexico to pay his respects to the viceroy, and to tell him that he and his Yumas greatly wished and would be very happy if Spaniards and fathers would come to their lands to live with them. In order to discuss this point properly, at night we withdrew to the interior of the house of Señor Ansa, Father Fray Thomás, I, and Palma, together with three or four old men whom we admitted to the discussion in order that they might hear what was said; and we talked a long while concerning the matter. The commander reminded him of the long journey and of the delays that might arise, as a result of which he might not be able to return to his own country for a long time. Palma replied by asking how many years it might be before he got back. The commander said to him, "A year at most," and even added that perhaps he himself would come back with him at once and remain in his country. (I do not know with what foundation he made this proposal. The only thing that I do know is that several times I heard him say that he would gladly go to live on the Colorado River because he liked those Indians.) Palma then said, "Very well," and as he persevered in his desire the commander promised to take him to Mexico, but stipulated that he must not go alone but must take some persons who would volunteer to accompany him.
From among the many who offered themselves, Palma chose two companions, namely, a brother of his and a son of Captain Pablo, to whom was added a Cajuenche youth who ever since Father Garcés visited his tribe had felt a firm desire to go to Mexico. These three, together with Captain Palma, came with us to the presidio of San Miguel, where I left them with Captain Ansa, with whom afterward they went on to Mexico.
When this decision had been reached, Palma was told to go to his house and tell the Indians that he was going, in order that they might know about it, and in order that there might not be any trouble because of his absence; and Palma right then and there designated an old Indian in whom he had confidence, to whom he said he was delivering the quiver in order that he might defend the country from its enemies and rule on the river. Then he went to his house, and, assembling his Indians, he charged them to plant their crops, and that they should try to plant much, and that they should live in peace, etc.
Monday, May 13 SP -- I said Mass. They began to take the baggage across the river on a large raft made of many trees by the Indians and some servants, at which work Captain Pablo assisted, without failing for an instant, and working harder than all the rest, for Captain Palma had gone to assemble the people. In the forenoon one raft load was taken over and in the afternoon another, including some men. But the raft was so badly damaged by the great force of the water from the whirlpools, which are formed by the narrowness of this pass, that it was necessary to take it apart, bring the logs back to this side, and make the raft anew.
I observed the latitude of this pass and found to be without correction in 32° 39 1/2', and with correction in 32° 47', and so I say: at the Puerto de La Concepción on the Colorado River, May 13, 1776 meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 75° 38'. With a rope about a hundred and twenty-five varas long which I had joined together, I made diligent efforts to measure the width of the river at the narrows formed by this pass, though I was not able to succeed. To carry the rope, steering to the other side, I employed an Indian and three Indian women who offered to swim across the river at the place where it was narrowest. But before reaching the middle the water drove them downstream, the rope was broken by a log which became tangled in it; and if they had not been such dextrous swimmers some accident might have happened. I therefore ceased my efforts I finally estimated that the river at this place must be about a hundred varas wide, a little more or less. What I do know is that an Indian fired an arrow from the top of the hill, and it fell on the opposite bank very close to the edge of the water. Therefore, in its narrowest part the river must be about an arrow shot wide.
Tuesday, May 14 SP -- While the raft was being made, resort was had to the expedient of having the Indian women swim over with various things in their coritas and their large caretes, and they spent the whole day making their voyages in this way. The raft being finished, at noon a raft load, including some men, was taken over. They again took the raft apart and made two others, which were finished about six o'clock in the afternoon; and now the commander decided that we should cross the river. The rafts were loaded with baggage and on one of them we embarked, the commander, Father Fray Thomás, I, and others, making thirteen in all. But as soon as we entered the river the raft began to ship water. Two persons precipitately jumped ashore, and we eleven who remained on the raft saw ourselves in no small peril; for aside from the fact that the raft could not be steered well because of its heavy load, and that it sank badly, just at the moment when it left the land a very strong whirlpool came and submerged it.
The Indians now thought that we ought to leap ashore, but Captain Pablo, who at the head was steering the raft with great courage, thought otherwise. He considered the idea of going back an insult, and according to what he said one would think that he wished alone to carry us in his arms to the other side. Finally, Pablo's view prevailing, they pushed the raft from the shore and shoved us into the river, so submerged that I, although seated on top of a box, became wet to the calf of my leg; and it is to be noted that the raft must have been something more than a vara and a half high. Many of the Indians who were on shore and saw what was happening immediately jumped into the water, and some forty of them, surrounding the raft, took us over to the other side in twelve minutes with a great hullabaloo and noise, especially when we were in the middle of the river and a soldier fired his musket, a thing that they greatly liked, and with no other mishap than that we got a little wet and came out on the other side below the other loads, which were not as heavy as this one.
Certainly these Indians are great swimmers and are very friendly with Spaniards. And they are most worthy of appreciation for their love and loyalty, for all our lives and all the baggage were in their hands. In so many voyages as the Indian women made the only thing that was lost was the shoe iron for the mules which an Indian woman was taking over in a corita, for, because of the weight, the corita began to leak and went to the bottom, the woman being unable to save the corita much less the shoe iron.
Wednesday, May 15 SP -- I said Mass. The rest of the baggage and the few men who remained were taken over on a raft. Thus, with six raft loads and the voyages made by the Indian women, everything was brought over and we had crossed the river, the saddle animals having swum over yesterday at midday, a considerable distance above the pass. The commander distributed glass beads to everybody to repay them for their labor, and then bade them goodbye; but such is the affection of these Yumas that many of them refused to leave until we ourselves should depart.
Among them remained Captain Pablo who, even though he may be bad, as Father Thomás says in his diary, this time signalized himself in everything, for he was very faithful and diligent in making the rafts, in taking over the baggage, and in commanding the people to aid him, he laboring at their head and harder than any of them, which made me very friendly toward him. In the matter of stealing, I do not know whether Pablo is like the rest of the Indians or not. It is certain that before setting out Señor Ansa missed his pocket knife, and though he inquired for it of the Indians who were there, no one knew anything about it. But when we were just about to mount our horses Pablo went straight to the corner of an arbor which had been made there to protect us from the sun, and, acting as though he were hunting, in an instant he pulled the knife out of the ground and gave it to Señor Ansa. From this we inferred that if he had not hid it he at least saw it hidden. The Yumas are very dextrous at this, and, in short, although they are good Indians they do not lack the gift of thievery. But, thank God, they did not steal much, as they might well have done; for, although some things were missed, among them being the capote of the commissary, it was of no account, considering the confusion that occurred in crossing the river and that we gave them the things very much scattered and in small bits.
To conclude what I have said of this Captain Pablo I wish to relate here what was told me about him by Señor Ansa, as having happened when he went through on his first expedition. I have already related, on the 27th of November, how at that time this captain attempted to prevent him from crossing the river and to kill him and his soldiers in order to get possession of what they had with them. Well, afterward he conducted himself quite the opposite. It happened that when Señor Ansa returned from Monterey, on wishing to leave the river he missed two mules and complained to the Indians because they had stolen them. This Captain Pablo heard of it and without saying anything he went to find the thief, and caught the Indian who had taken the mules to his house with the stolen goods in his hands, that is to say, with the two mules which he had there, one alive and tied and the other already dead, for he was butchering her. Then Pablo, who was very angry, wished to kill the malefactor because he had done this, but the Indian fled. Then, seeing that he was not able to kill the man he killed the man's wife with an arrow.
Pulling out the arrow which he had shot through her heart, and taking the live mule, Pablo now went to Señor Ansa and presented her to him, saying that he brought only one because the thief had killed the other, but that he had avenged this wrong, and since he was unable to kill the thief he was presenting him with the arrow with which he had killed the wife. Señor Ansa severely reprimanded him for the deed, saying that he did not like it, and that he would rather have lost both mules than have him do such a thing as kill anybody. Pablo insisted, nevertheless, that he should accept the arrow which he was presenting to him, but Señor Ansa, as a sign that he was greatly displeased that he had killed the woman, refused to accept it. Thereupon Pablo, appearing insulted, became angry, and asked him why he felt this way just because he had killed a woman; and if this was a good reason why the Spanish captain should not accept the arrow with which he had avenged the wrong? I do not know whether or not this case proves that Captain Pablo is loyal or just a butcher. Indeed, he shows signs of being both one and the other.
Among the Indian women who yesterday made their voyages there was a grown-up daughter of Captain Palma, a great swimmer, and the one who went at the head of all the rest. But she was painted with red ochre according to their custom, for they stick this paint on so securely that although they may be in the water all day, as was the case yesterday, it does not come off. I had formerly told her and others that it was not good for them to paint themselves, because the Spaniards and Christians do not do it; and today when she bade me goodbye I told her the same thing, and suggested that she wash herself with water which she had there, because in this way it would be better. She replied that she did not know how to wash herself and that I should wash her, and to her great pleasure and that of those assembled I did give her a good soaping, and succeeded in removing the paint. Then I gave her a mirror in order that she might see that this way was good, and, looking at herself, she broke out laughing, "Ajot! Ajot!" Which means "Good! Good!" I relate this incident as a significant circumstance, because those Indians are so enamored of their paints that it will be very difficult to succeed in taking them away from the women, and much more difficult to take them from the men, with whom I was not able to succeed so well; for they consider it gala dress to go around painted and dirty like devils.
Just as we began to eat dinner the Indians said that there were Spaniards on the other side of the river, some saying that it was Father Garcés; but soon they said "Assende Jecó," which means "A Spaniard," adding that he came from the Cajuenches, and that the father would not come alone. The commander suspected that it might be some deserter from the presidio of Monterey, as indeed it was, and he ordered the Indians to bring him across the river, whoever he might be. After dinner the Indians came with the Jecó, bringing him between them a prisoner; and we saw that he was a deserter from the expedition, one of those Señor Ribera had in San Diego, but who, not being imprisoned, had fled from that presidio on Sunday the 5th of this month. He had come to this place on foot and with great hardship, and Señor Ansa admitted him and he joined the muleteers. We asked him about the road he had come by, and he told us that in the sierra he had found a good road and not very long, coming out at the Wells of Santa Rosa. He said that he had the hardest time in the sand dunes, where he was completely lost, for he brought from San Diego only half a dozen tortillas for his sustenance on the way. With this I was confirmed in the opinion which I had already formed that the port of San Diego is not very far from the Colorado River, and that the only obstacle to communication is the bad passage of the sand dunes, and that if these can be circumvented communication will be easy.
Finally, saying goodbye to the Yumas, with much tenderness on account of their fidelity and affection for us, which they manifested by wishing to know when we would return, we continued our journey, accompanied by Father Fray Thomás, without waiting any longer for Father Garcés, and joined by Captain Palma and his companions. The company now consisted of the thirty persons above-mentioned, Palma and his three companions, Father Thomás with two interpreters, a servant, and his boy, so that altogether, counting the deserter, we comprised the number of forty.
We set out, then, from the banks of the Colorado River at a quarter to five in the afternoon, and at nine o'clock at night halted at the pass and banks of the Gila River, having traveled seven leagues, the two first to the southeast and east-southeast, and having struck our own trail, the rest in the direction opposite to that on going. This camp site is the same as that where we halted on the 27th of November. It happened that Señor Ansa went ahead with some soldiers to seek a camp site, and since it was night I and the rest of the people passed by without seeing him, and knowing that it must be ten o'clock at night and that the camp could not be so distant, halted, struck a light, and had the road examined. Finding no fresh tracks there I realized that we had left Señor Ansa behind. I therefore decided that we should halt and pass the night there and reassemble in the morning. So we remained there, near a little grass for the animals, spending the night thus separated and without any provisions -- Seven leagues.
Thursday, May 16 SP -- We set out from the pass and the banks of the Gila at half past five in the morning, and at half past six in the afternoon, having traveled six leagues in this way, we halted at Laguna Salobre, where we stopped on the 25th of November.
In the morning when we saddled I sent two men back to see where Señor Ansa was, and he arrived at our camp at a quarter past six, we being very happy at seeing him and because we had become reunited. We went forward, and at a quarter past seven, having traveled some two leagues, we halted on the bank of the Gila River where we had stopped on the 26th of November. We made a hut of boughs, the pack train came up, and at nine I said Mass because it was Ascension Day.
Some Indians followed us to this place on foot, and although they were urged to return it was necessary to be firm in the matter because they were determined to follow Palma. Although they persisted in following us, we finally sent them away, there remaining only a Cajuenche, who said that he did not wish to come any further than to pass the night with us and that in the morning he would go back. Judging from what occurred afterward, he merely wished to see if he could get his claws on something.
It happened, indeed, that in the afternoon, before we loaded our packs, we missed the machete of the principal muleteer, and Palma was told that some Indian had carried it off. Palma became excited and delivered an harangue to his companions. Then the Cajuenche, his companion, said that the Indian who had remained with us and refused to go back had hidden it. He denied this, but Señor Ansa told him that if he did not return the machete he would order him tied and beaten until he should disclose it. Frightened, the Indian began to look on the ground as if he were hunting something. From the way he looked the brother of Palma discovered the place where he had buried it, and digging there he found it immediately and brought it forth. I then took the Indian thief by the hand and, calling Palma, I delivered him to him, gave him my quirt, and told him to punish him by showing him how to use it. Thereupon, Palma, very angry, with his left hand, for he is left-handed, gave him three blows so briskly that with the third one he brought blood. I thereupon checked him at once and did not permit him to continue, for judging from the zeal with which he began he would have flayed him.
We set out from here at a quarter to four in the afternoon and at half past six halted at Salobre . It was decided to leave here the road followed on going and, crossing the Papaguería, to come out at the mission of Caborca, this being a more direct road to San Miguel de Orcasitas .
Señor Ansa examined the deserter leisurely concerning the road by which he had come, and from what he said I was confirmed in the opinion which I had formed that the port of San Diego was distant from Puerto de la Concepción some fifty leagues. The climate which I experienced on the Colorado River and on the Gila is very cold in winter and very hot in summer -- Six leagues.
Friday, May 17 SP -- I said Mass. We remained here until afternoon in order from this river to take the road to Caborca. With the heat which we felt here today the burning of my mouth became worse, and with the salt water the animals became sick, for this river might well be called the Salado, so that today two mules and one horse remained on the road tired out and lost.
FRAY PEDRO FONT (Rubric)
We set out from the Laguna Salobre at four in the afternoon, and at a quarter to twelve at night halted at a patch of coarse grass which they call galleta, a league after crossing the sand-filled arroyo which they call the Pozos de en Medio, having traveled eleven leagues, three to the south, six to the south-southeast till we came to the road followed by Señor Ansa the first time, then two to the southeast. The road was level all the way, but over sandy country, dry and most difficult, with no trees except some scrubby mesquites near the sandy arroyo, a great deal of hediondilla, and some coarse galleta grass -- Eleven leagues.
Saturday, May 18 SP -- We set out from the Zacatal Duro at five in the morning, and at a quarter to two at night halted near the Llano del Tuzal before reaching the Puerto Blanco, having traveled eighteen leagues by a route much varied, three leagues east by north, two northeast, and one east-southeast, when we came to the Tinajas de la Candelaria, where we stopped to take a siesta from nine in the morning until a quarter to six in the afternoon. This place consists of some wild and naked sierras or very high cliffs in which there are some concavities called tinajas, in which there is usually water. At this place there are nine tinajas formed in the rocks, one above the other, or one higher up than the other, and animals are watered by emptying those above with coritas. The animals were watered twice, there being more than a hundred of them; and in this labor almost all of the time was spent. Then, with the intention of going straight to El Carrizal in one march, without touching at the Tinaja del Aguaje Empinado, which we left at our right because it is not possible for the animals to drink at it, we traveled three leagues to the northeast over malpais, six to the southeast, and three to the east-southeast. We now dismounted to rest and lie down a little while until the pack train arrived, without taking the bridles from the animals. ? Eighteen leagues.
Sunday, May 19 SP -- We slept for a while. The pack train arrived at four o'clock in the morning and went forward without halting. We breakfasted and some of us changed mounts to continue the journey. At five o'clock in the morning we set out from the Llano del Tuzal, and at half past eleven arrived at the Arroyo del Carrizal, having traveled ten leagues, three to the east southeast to the Puerto Blanco, and the rest southeast by south. The road was level, but almost all the way over sandy land and all bad, with no other grass than a little galleta; and today three horses and one mule were left behind worn out and lost. The pack train traveled something more than nineteen hours without stopping and arrived at one in the afternoon. The heat left us exhausted, although after nightfall it became so cool that a blanket and the doubled capote did not suffice to keep out the cold. This place usually has water all the year round. It is somewhat salty, but not so very bad, and there is some grass. This arroyo comes from the east and from not very far away, being formed by various canyons in the adjacent range, and runs south and west to the sea. They say that in all its course it has a little water in small pools, and at this place it runs somewhat -- Ten leagues.
Monday, May 20 SP -- We set out from the Arroyo del Carrizal at a quarter to six in the morning, and at half past eight at night halted at the foot of some peaks, having traveled thirteen leagues. We went six leagues to the east and three to the east-southeast, arriving at the ruined mission called San Marcelo de Sonóytac at half past eleven, the pack train arriving at one in the afternoon. Here we remained for a siesta until half past five in the afternoon. All this road is rather rough though somewhat wooded, and the land is not so wild as that preceding. It has some mesquites and saguaros and much brush and hediondilla, and the hills, although arid, are not so dry nor so purely of rock as those of La Candelaria.
On the way, after going about three leagues, we were met by an Indian from Sonóytac who was going as a messenger to the Colorado River with letters for Señor Ansa, and one from the viceroy for Father Garcés. It was opened by his companion, Father Thomás, to see if it contained any superior order; and we saw that it was the one which I mentioned on December 1, with which his Excellency transmitted to Father Garcés the notices sent to Mexico by Father Fray Silvestre Velez de Escalante, thinking that they might serve to give him some information for his journeys, but it lacked the narrative, or the copy of it, because it had been mislaid in the secretariat, as I said on April 3.
Near El Carrizal we saw an Indian with his family. About three leagues before reaching Sonóytac we passed some deserted little huts, and here in Sonóytac we saw about twenty Indians, or families, with their governor. Sonóytac was once a mission, although a small one. In a small arroyo it has sufficient permanent water for a slender settlement and for a small amount of agriculture, but for building it is an impossible place, having no other timber than a few stunted willows near the water and some scrubby mesquite.
In the afternoon we traveled two leagues to the south-southeast and two to the southeast. This road is somewhat rough but not very broken, and it is quite well wooded, and for a good stretch has much jojoba which we saw to be green and in abundance. It appears that this country contains gold ore, and the experienced men say there are the best of paints about two leagues from Sonóytac. Some of the men took ore from the surface to wash, and although they did not obtain any gold, they did get some tepustete. On setting out from Sonóytac we passed by the site and small hill where the Indians killed their Jesuit father minister at the foot of a saguaro, from which they hung his holy crucifix, and now a cross is erected there -- Thirteen leagues.
Tuesday, May 21 SP -- From camp at the foot of the hills we set forth at half past four in the morning, and at eleven o'clock at night halted at a zacatal, having traveled seventeen leagues, two south-southeast, two south-southwest, two southwest and two west-southwest, arriving at half past nine at Quitobác, a pueblo de visita of the mission of Sonóytac and called San Luís, where we stopped to take a siesta until five o'clock in the afternoon. The road was along the rough sierra on our right which we began to follow yesterday afternoon. It is quite level and somewhat wooded. On the way a mule was left tired out and lost. The Indians of this place of Quitobác, called also Bacapa, were very obliging. The governor come out on the road on horseback to welcome us, and under a mesquite they made a good shade for us with large and very well-made reed mats which they brought. This place has some little springs of water, although altogether it is very little and not very good, while there was no grass at all, and so the animals set out from here hungry.
In the afternoon we traveled about a league to the east-southeast, two southeast, following a dry and sandy arroyo to the foot of a hill or peak which one goes through like a pass, one south-southeast, one south, three southeast, and one east-southeast until we halted. This road is through level and somewhat wooded country. On our left ran at some distance a range which goes to Sonóytac, in which near Sonóytac they say there is a hill of salt -- Seventeen leagues.
Wednesday, May 22 SP -- Yesterday the air was fresh and today it continued in the same way, something which we did not expect in this Papaguería, so dry, uninhabitable, and hot. We set out from the zacatal at a quarter to six in the morning, and at half past ten at night arrived near the place called in the first expedition San Yldefonso, having traveled fifteen leagues. In the forenoon we went two east-southeast, five southeast, and one south, until at eleven we arrived at San Eduardo de la Aribaycpia, which is an arroyo full of sand, where we stopped to take a siesta until half past five in the afternoon. The road is level all the way and somewhat grown with mesquite, palo verde, and much ramajo and hediondilla. On the way we bore at our right a low sierra which runs from near Quitobác. Aribaycpia is a place with a very sandy arroyo which always has water, but it is necessary to dig in the sand a vara or more in order to find it; and here and on the road one encounters some grass. Then in the afternoon we traveled three leagues south-southeast, until we struck the road the runs to the pueblo of Bísanig, which we did not take, two southeast over a road that was stony and rather close to a sierra, and two south-southwest over a better road. Aribaycpia means "well of water in the sand."?Fifteen leagues.
Thursday, May 23 SP -- We set forth from San Yldefonso at half past five in the morning, and at twelve arrived at the mission of Caborca, having traveled nine leagues, three south, three southeast, and three east-southeast. All the road through the Papaguería is very crooked and winding because of the great scarcity of pasturage along the way, and especially of watering places. These are very few and it is necessary to go to seek them, which explains why this road is so difficult to travel over. We were welcomed with brotherly love and joy by the father minister of this mission, Fray Ambrosio Calzada. In the afternoon his companion, Fray Mathías Moreno, came from Pitic, a visita of this mission, two leagues away, where he was at the time. From the presidio of El Altar, which is distant from this mission eight leagues to the east, some saddle animals were requested to relieve those which were now worn-out from the bad road through the Papaguería, the commander sending two soldiers in the afternoon with orders to return tomorrow. ?Nine leagues.
Friday, May 24 SP -- I said Mass. We remained at the mission. I observed its latitude and found it without correction to be in 30° 38 1/2', and with correction in 30° 44', and so I say: at the mission of Caborca, May 24, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 80°. At night the soldiers who went yesterday to the presidio of El Altar returned with twelve saddle animals. Don Phelipe Velderrain, alferez of Tubac, came and brought the report that nothing now remained at the mission of Tumacácori, for the Apaches had carried off everything and caused much damage, but that they did not return through there. He reported these mishaps and events with an indifference very foreign to his office, which it made me sick to hear.
Saturday, May 25 SP -- I said Mass. Before I went to Mass the alférez of Tubac entered, and without saluting me began to talk with the commissary and others who were there, relating with great coolness, and as if boasting, the disasters caused by the Apaches and the desolation there, and saying that now it only lacked for them to come to carry off their women and other things. Unable to contain myself, I said to him that I was ashamed to see him laugh, and the way in which he related such misfortunes, etc. He tried to defend himself by saying,
Well, Father, must I cry?
I replied, "Yes, Sir, you ought to cry, for I, although I am not of this country, greatly regret its unhappiness; while you, whose duty it is to try to remedy it by restraining the enemy, do not do so, because you fellows attend to nothing except to gamble, dance the fandango, and wear many galloons on your hats (he wore two galloons on his sombrero)."
He replied with great impudence that I ought to go there and command the soldiers, and then they would see my ability and learn how it is done. He having repeated this twice, I replied that it was not my business to command the soldiers, and I concluded by telling him that I did not wish to argue with him any more because he was a man without manners. Then I went to say Mass.
The alférez no doubt reported what I said to him to Señor Ansa, as he was his godson; for all the morning Señor Ansa was sulky, with a book in his hand. They afterward unhorsed the alférez for his bad conduct, and a certain Don Diego Oya was sent as his successor; but Señor Ansa, because he was the other's godfather, arranged for the time being at San Miguel with the governor not to approve the successor, characterizing him as a useless man. So he was forced to return to the out country, although afterward the superiors ordered him to return from Durango and he went to his destination, Alférez Velderrain remaining unhorsed without his compadre, Señor Ansa, being able to prevent it.
At noon, at the table, Father Thomás said to Señor Ansa that he needed some saddle animals to go to Tumacácori. The fact is that on the road Señor Ansa had told him that he would be pleased to have him go to San Miguel in his company, but since this was nothing more than a formal politeness of his, now in order to get rid of the father he said to him that it was better for him to go to his mission with the alférez who was going there. He replied, indeed, that he would furnish him the saddle animals.
Then the father asked him to give something to the servant who by accident had remained at the Colorado River, and who had served him there as a cook, and in everything, and indeed had served him well. Señor Ansa replied that he was under no obligation to pay this servant anything because he was not there on his account, for he had not arranged for him, and that in case he were to pay him anything it would have to be from his own pocket. Thereupon I said,
Well, Señor, do you not say in your diary, 'three servants for the three fathers?' Where are the three servants?
He replied, frowning now, "Well, your Reverence, were you not given a servant?"
I replied, "Yes, Sir, after I had asked for one several times; but two are lacking to make three, for the one who was taken by Father Garcés and returned from the Colorado River you also said did not go on your account, and you paid him nothing, unless it is that Sebastián counts as your servant, for you have counted him as a muleteer, cook, interpreter, and, at the beginning, as my servant. And the boy taken by Father Thomás likewise does not count as a servant. Therefore, if this young fellow for whom the asks pay is not a servant on your account, I can not find the three which you mention."
Now it happened that before dinner I asked him to tell me how he understood the entry which he knew he had made in his diary, that is to say, "five interpreters for five tribes," for I did not find more than three, and four at the most, counting as a servant of his an interpreter of the Pima tribe. To this he replied, as if pushing me away from him,
Oh! Leave that for San Miguel, your Reverence, for when we arrive there we will see about it, and I will tell you.
The fact is that in order to heap up salaries he bad listed an interpreter of the Nixora tribe, though there is no such tribe; for in the Pimería they call Nixoras the Indians whom the tribes of the interior in their wars capture amongst themselves, and whom afterward the Yumas and Papágos bring to El Altar and other places to sell as captives or slaves, no matter what tribe they may belong to.
Since Señor Ansa did not wish that I should know of these things, he never wished to give me figures regarding the expedition, although I asked him for them several times; and when he was asked he even appeared injured, and this was the last time I asked him about it. For this, in fact, Señor Ansa became very much displeased, saying that I was making insinuations against him and that they greatly offended him. I replied to him,
Señor, they are not insinuations, but very plain statements, but you are so sensitive that when I touch upon a thing which you do not like you take offense.
This mode of conversation, which was now becoming heated, finally ended, the fathers interposing themselves to interrupt it. Señor Ansa remained very angry all day, and now ended the friendship for me which hitherto he had manifested, and I remained from here forward in his disfavor. I have locked horns with him several times, not so much on my own account as on account of the two fathers; and in the end I have come out blamed, for very few persons like this matter of speaking plainly, and as a rule there is verity in the adage which says, "He who speaks the truth loses friends."
In the afternoon Father Fray Thomás Eixarch set out with the alférez for his mission of Tumacácori. We left the mission of Caborca at a quarter past four in the afternoon, and at half past eleven at night halted in the flat of the place called El Bámuri having traveled ten leagues to the south-southeast. All this road is through level country -- Ten leagues.
Sunday, May 26, Feast of Espirítu Santo SP -- We left El Bámuri at a quarter past five in the morning, and at a quarter past eight arrived at the Real de la Cieneguilla, having traveled five leagues to the south- southeast. As soon as we arrived there Lientenant Don Pedro Tueros came to welcome us and designated a house in which to lodge us and the gentlemen merchants of this mining camp. After the necessary compliments I went to say Mass. In the afternoon I went to see the placers, invited by Don Francisco de Guizarnótegui, who accompanied me; and I saw how the Indians take out the gold. The placers are distant a league from the camp, and we returned at night -- Five leagues.
Monday, May 27 SP -- I awoke entirely relieved of my ills, so that of the flux and the disorder of the stomach from which I had suffered all the way and of which I was relieved but occasionally and only for short times, from this day I was completely cured, and did not feel it any more; and the fever of my mouth became less, getting better each day until I was completely cured in Ures a few days after having arrived there. We remained here today, and chanted Mass at the altar because I was asked to do so by the curate of the camp, Don Joseph Nicolás de Mesa. I observed the latitude of that camp, and found it without correction to be in 30° 9 1/2', and with correction in 30° 11 1/2', and so I say: at the Real de la Cieneguilla, May 27, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 81°. I took dinner at the house of Don Francisco de Guizarnótegui, and at night we enjoyed ourselves for a while there.
Tuesday, May 28 SP -- I said Mass, and afterward I assisted in the chorus of the Mass which the Señor curate chanted at the altar. Although it had been decided to continue our journey today, we waited to take advantage of the opportunity to go with and as escort to other people who were setting out next morning, because the road which we had still to travel is very dangerous from the hostile Apaches, who recently have committed along it various attacks and murders. And even worse than the Apaches are the Serys and the Pimas or revolted Piatos, who, being more bloody, have perpetrated in these lands horrible atrocities, ravages, robberies, and murders. Therefore, in the afternoon we went to sing Vespers, for during these three days the Blessed Sacrament was exposed; and at night we went to enjoy ourselves for a while at the house of Don Antonio Castro, yielding to the urging and coaxing of Don Antonio and his wife Doña Ygnacia, since they are persons worthy of being pleased, on account of their affection, and especially on the present occasion when with great love they entertained Captain Palma and his companions in their house.
Wednesday, May 29 SP -- I said Mass. I delivered to Lieutenant Don Pedro Tueros the vestments of San Ygnacio which had been loaned me by Father Fray Francisco Zuñiga, with which to say Mass on the way, as I related on October 10; and he promised to send them to that mission. We said goodbye to the lieutenant, the father curate, and the rest of the gentlemen of that camp, all of whom were very demonstrative and altogether attentive in every way.
We set out from the Real de la Cieneguilla at a quarter past five in the afternoon, and at ten o'clock at night halted at the place called Los Cerritos, having traveled seven leagues, two southeast and five east-southeast. We were accompanied by a pack train which was going to Guásabas with its escort of Opata Indians and others who joined us, making in all more than sixty persons; for, because this road is so risky and dangerous from enemies, as I said yesterday, only in convoy can it be traveled without great risk. Señor Guizarnótegui accompanied us for a short distance.
Thursday, May 30 SP -- We left Los Cerritos at a quarter to five in the morning, and at a quarter past nine at night halted in a plain a league beyond the junction of this road with the one which goes to the watering place called La Tortuga, having traveled fourteen leagues. The first seven were to the southeast, when we arrived at the watering place of El Tecolote, where we remained for a siesta from ten in the morning until four in the afternoon. In this place, which is a narrow and rather long canyon, the enemies have done much damage. The road is level all the way except for a short stretch a little before and a little after passing the Cerros del Tecolote, where it is somewhat broken and runs through a canyon; and is therefore more dangerous. Halfway on the road, at half past seven, we passed the watering place of El Carrizal, where there are several crosses commemorating the murders which the hostile Piatos perpetrated on Señor Michilena and his companions, whom they killed there. Then in the afternoon we traveled seven leagues southeast by east, winding around somewhat, until we came out from among the hills -- Fourteen leagues.
Friday, May 31 SP -- We set out from El Llano at a quarter to five in the morning, and at a quarter past ten at night halted at a very open plain beyond El Zanjón, as they call it, having traveled fifteen leagues, the first five to the southeast and south-southeast to El Pozo de Chryssanto, where we remained to take a siesta from half past eight in the morning to half past three in the afternoon. Almost all the road is level. This watering place is an open and rather deep well in a valley, so it is necessary to water the animals by hand. It is so-called because Chryssanto, the governor of the Serys, discovered it at the time of the expedition, when those Indians were in rebellion and had one of their retreats here. Then in the afternoon we traveled ten leagues to the east-southeast with some variation. On halting, the men of the rear guard reported that they had seen footprints which they suspected might be the trail of enemies. And so it is that this road from Cieneguilla is strewn with crosses commemorating the murders which the hostile Serys, Piatos, and Apaches have committed along it -- Fifteen leagues.