Diary of Captain Juan Bautista de Anza, Exploratory Expedition
January 9, 1774 - May 27, 1774
DIARY OF THE MARCH AND OPERATIONS WHICH I, THE UNDERSIGNED CAPTAIN OF CALVARY OF THE ROYAL PRESIDIO OF TUBAC IN THE PROVINCE OF SONORA, AM UNDERTAKING FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPENING COMMUNICATION FROM THAT PROVINCE TO NORTHERN CALIFORNIA BY WAY OF THE GILA AND COLORADO RIVERS, FOR WHICH EXPEDITION I AM COMMISSIONED BY HIS EXCELLENCY, THE LIEUTENANT-GENERAL DON ANTONIO MARIA BUCARELLI Y URSUA, VICEROY, GOVERNOR, AND CAPTAIN-GENERAL OF NEW SPAIN, AS IS SHOWN BY HIS SUPERIOR ORDER OF SEPTEMBER 17, 1773.
FROM TUBAC TO CABORCA
PERSONS COMPRISED IN AND GOING ON THIS EXPEDITION:
| The commander, Don Juan Baptista de Anza | 1 |
| The father preachers de propaganda fide of the College of the Holy Cross of Querétaro Fray Juan Diaz | 1 |
| Fray Francisco Garzes | 1 |
| Twenty volunteer soldiers from the presidio named, including a corporal | 20 |
| A soldier sent from Mexico by his Excellency the Viceroy because he knows the California raft-loads | 1 |
| A native of that Peninsula who, on the 26th of last December, came out from it to the towns of Pimería Alta and the presidio of E1 Altar | 1 |
| An interpreter of the Pima language, because it is thought that from it the interior tongues are derived | 1 |
| A native of the presidio in my charge to serve as carpenter | 1 |
| Five muleteers and two of my servants | 7 |
| There are carried thirty-five loads of provisions, munitions of war, tobacco, equipage, and other things necessary for an unknown country. | 35 |
| Sixty-five beevas on foot | 65 |
| one hundred and forty mounts, counting those which it is planned to get later in the pueblo of Caborca. | 140 |
Saturday, the 8th of January, 1774, SP all the foregoing being ready, Mass was sung in the morning with all the ceremony which the country permits, to invoke the divine aid in this expedition, and the Blessed Trinity and the mystery of the Immaculate Conception of Holy Mary were named as its patrons. This having been done, at one in the afternoon the march was begun, and having traveled a league we made camp for the night at the ford of San Xavier del Bac.
Sunday, January 9 SP -- At eight o'clock in the morning we set out to the south-southwest over the highway for the towns of the Pima tribe which we call the Pimas of the West, and for the presidio of El Altar, which is in their midst and is the presidio of the province of Sonora the most advanced toward the Gulf of California
It was not necessary to make the journey through these regions, because the port of Monte Rey or its environs must be sought toward the northwest of the presidio in my charge, and there is doubtless a road to it by way of the Gila and Colorado rivers. However, I was forced to depart from this plan, which I had always wished to adopt, for the following reasons:
First, in order to take as the safest route the direction or road followed as far as the Pimeria by a native of California who fled from the new mission of San Gabriel which, according to his report, is midway between the ports of San Diego and Monte Rey, and whence he set out for the rivers named. From these rivers, if possible, I shall go straight to the last-named port, if it is indicated or is learned through any tribe of Indians that in that region there is the same abundance of pasturage and water which this native says he noted in the region which he crossed, as I have informed his Excellecy.
Secondly, because a large number of Apaches, on the 2d of last month, attacked the horse herd of my presidio and stole from it about a hundred and thirty saddle animals, including many of those destined and reserved for this enterprise. This loss it is not possible to repair in my presidio or its environs, nor can I delay any longer under the circumstances those which escaped are exposed to a greater loss, and since the best season for this journey is passing. For this reason, and because there is better opportunity to replace a part of my losses in the towns named, I have decided to go that way, and I have begged the governor of the provinces to give his order that when I pass through them they shall provide me the number of animals which I need to complete my equipment.
Finally, I decided that it was well to test immediately the road through the part of Pimería next to the Gulf of California, because this is the best and only one by which to provide the Peninsula with what it needs, not only from the Pimería and the provinces of Sonora, but also from those which follow as far as Mexico. Indeed, along the coast the raids of the Apaches do not occur an important advantage which will not be obtained so readily by any other route over which a road may be opened.
At vespers on this day the march was concluded, we having traveled eight leagues, as far as the site of La Aribac, a place which was occupied by some cattle ranches and Spaniards until the end of the year 1751, when it was abandoned because of the general uprising of the Pima tribe, which killed most of its inhabitants. The battle with the rebels themselves, which took place right here the year after the uprising, is memorable. For having come more than thousand strong, led by their captain-general, to attack the Spanish force composed of eighty soldiers and commanded by Don Bernardo de Urrea, now captain of the presidio of El Altar, the army of the enemy was completely put to rout, with many deaths on their side, from which resulted the pacification of this tribe.
This place has the advantage of good gold and silver mines which were worked until the year sixty seven, when they were abandoned because of greater persecution by the Apaches. From that time henceforward grains and good-sized nuggets of pure gold have been found in the neighborhood, for I have seen them. It also has most beautiful and abundant pastures, and a number of permanent springs in the interior of the mountains. The chief one where the settlement was, is now running, although not with great abundance.
Monday, January 10 SP -- At nine in the morning we act out toward the south- southwest passing various-ranges on our right and left, and having traveled about seven leagues we halted to pass the night at the site of Agua Escondida, so-called because the spring is about a quarter of a league off the highway on the right.From Tubac to Agua Escondida, 16 leagues.
Tuesday and Wednesday, the 11th and 12th SP -- , we remained in this place, because it had been raining and snowing incessantly since the night of the 10th.
Thursday, January 13 SP -- Today having dawned clear, at eight in the morning we mobilized our train and set forth to the south-southwest and marched seven leagues, until the end of the afternoon, when we halted for the night in the pueblo of El Saric. -- From Tubac to El Saric, 23 leagues.
This is a town of Pimas Altos and the first of the Pimas of the West, when coming from the north. It has forty families, and like all the rest of the towns of this tribe it is administered in spiritual affairs by the fathers of the College of the Cross of Querétaro. The fertile country around this pueblo, its own abundance of water, and the vast irrigable lands which it enjoys in superabundance, would provide crops enough to support two thousand citizens. They likewise would be able to raise and maintain any kind of stock which they might wish, since there are advantages for every species, as well as for obtaining good timber of various kinds, all of which are unused because at present this is one of the places most plundered by the Apaches.
About seven or eight leagues to the northeast of this pueblo is the site of Arizonac, or of the celebrated nuggets, so-called from the nuggets of virgin silver which were found in the year 1736, some weighing as much as a hundred and fifty arrobas. This story has been doubted, but it is well authenticated, because there are still living many persons who possessed them, and I could likewise give documents which prove the story. Besides, my father, upon the advice of persons learned in the law, sequestrated them because it appeared to him that they belonged to his Majesty, and while his proceedings were not entirely approved by the council in the City of Mexico, they were sustained by the royal council of Castile.
On the information of men versed in mining I have heard it surmised and said that they failed, and have still failed, to discover the mother lode from which those nuggets came, and that their value, although great, did not compare with the profits that might be obtained from the many and good mines which could be worked with quicksilver. But this process has not been introduced into this province of Sonora, to the very grave injury of its inhabitants and of the royal exchequer. Indeed, the lack of this practice is the reason why this prodigious site has been abandoned, and why it is suffering increased risk from the Apaches, who have made their road right through it.
Friday, January 14 SP -- At seven in the morning we continued the march south- southwest down the river of El Saric. This river rises in the spring of El B'sani, which is about a league and a half to the north of El Saric. Having traveled about four leagues we halted at La Cuesta, or La Estancia, because thenceforward for several leagues there is no pasturage.
Saturday, January 15 SP -- About seven in the morning we set forth to the southwest, still following the river. Having traveled along it for two leagues, we passed through the pueblo of Tubutama, which is inhabited by the Pima Indians, of whom it has about thirty families. A league and a half farther on is the pueblo of Santa Teresa with twenty families, and two leagues beyond that place is San Francisco del Ati, which must have thirty families.
These pueblos along this river enjoy good and plentiful lands for irrigation, sufficient to support by their crops as many as three thousand families of Spaniards, who might also raise some stock, although not on a large scale, because from Tubutama to Ati the pasturage decreases greatly. All the pueblos as far as this last one, and those farther downstream, suffer from the Apache persecutions, although they do not equal the depredations at El Saric by a long shot. Just before reaching the pueblo of Santa Theresa the road turns, inclining now to the west and west-southwest. Halfway between Santa Theresa and Tubutama placers have recently been found, and still more recently another very large one was discovered right close to El Ati, where we passed the night.From Tubac to Tubutama, 29 leagues. From Tubac to El Ati, 33 leagues.
Sunday, January 16 SP -- At eight o'clock in the morning we began the march, going west, and having gone about six leagues along the same river we halted in the pueblo of Oquitoa, which is inhabited by thirty families of the tribe already named, and where also live twelve families of Spaniards. This pueblo is as well provided as the foregoing with irrigable farm lands. It enjoys nearby, up the river, a beautiful marsh with much pasturage, and in the same region there are silver mines which in another country free from the plague of Apaches, would afford their workers some advantages.From Tubac to the pueblo of Oquitoa, 39 leagues.
Monday, January 17 SP -- Having traveled two leagues to the west, downstream from Oquitoa, a halt was made at the presidio of El Altar, because it threatened to rain and since it was necessary to give time to arrange for the exchange of some saddle animals which had arrived here almost used up, for others in better condition. The exchange was effected in the best manner possible, the greater part being contributed by the captain, Don Bernardo de Urrea. This presidio has a regular force of fifty men, including two subalterns, like all of those depending on the government of Sonora. Of all the interior presidios this is the least troubled by the Apaches, who rarely reach this place and who seldom, and less often severely, attack the pueblos which follow down the river. This stream, although it takes its course toward the Gulf of California, does not empty into it, partly because from the presidio of El Altar forward the volume of water decreases, and partly because the land is now spongy and sandy and absorbs a large part of the water.From Tubac to the presidio of El Altar, 41 leagues.
Tuesday, January 18 SP -- Because morning dawned with signs of rain, which were partly verified, it was not possible to travel today.
Wednesday, January 19 SP -- At the regular time we continued the march, going west-northwest, somewhat apart from the river, and having traveled rather more than five leagues, camp was made in the pueblo of El Pitic. From Tubac to Pitic, 46 leagues.
Thursday, January 20 SP -- Having traveled two leagues in the same direction and along the same river, we halted in the pueblo of Caborca, which has ninety families. We stopped here because it was necessary to travel a part of the afternoon, in order to make the next journey with some convenience, so that by marching a part of the night and the next morning we may reach the only water which intervenes. We had to stop, also, to obtain in this pueblo some mules which we lack, in order to have those necessary for the journey and to get which, as was said in the beginning, we decided to come this way. From Tubac to Caborca, 48 leagues.
In this pueblo, in that of Pitic, and in that of V'sani, distant [six leagues] from here downstream to the west-southwest, are found assembled the Pimas who surrendered as a result of the expedition which was made against them and the Seris, their allies, in the years from 1768 to 1770, [Footnote 26] people in whom one now sees nothing which would suggest revolt. At four leagues from V'sani, and the same distance from this pueblo of Caborca, are found good-sized silver mines, which would be more esteemed if the people of this country had devoted themselves to working them with quicksilver; but this method not being practiced and these mines having a mixture of copper in abundance, by extracting the dross with fire they likewise lose what is valuable in the process. Twenty-five leagues from the same V'sani, right on the Gulf of California, are found abundant beds of crystallized salt, although the very purest usually becomes scarce in years when it rains.
Friday, January 21 SP -- By order of the governor of the provinces and of Captain Don Bernardo Urrea, two small droves of mules were shown to me, but whereas I had flattered myself that I should leave this pueblo amply supplied with the mules which I needed, I saw only stacks of bones which the animals torpidly moved. I caused others to be shown me, but, although our need was extreme, we were able to get only two very poor ones. As a means of supplying myself I finally had to take advantage of the very few possessed by the missions of this river, which were three, but with these I remained in almost the same need as before. Although this was to me a matter of great sorrow, because of the lack which might experience on a long journey, yet I yielded to the situation since there was no other recourse and no means of remedy. No march was made on this day because our muleteer, who left us at the presidia of Altar to go to the mining camp of Cieneguilla to get shoes for his mules, did not arrive with them as he had agreed.
Saturday, January 22 SP -- At twelve o'clock we set forth toward the northwest over a good country, traveling at first a short distance from the river of Caborca. Then, having gone about four leagues, we paralleled on the right the medium-sized sierras of Piast and Buccomari, names in the Pima language, and some small peaks on the left. Having traveled two more leagues between them, we camped on a flat which has plentiful pasturage, the first found after leaving Caborca. Here the rest of the night was passed, and the place was called San Ildephonso.
Sunday, January 23 SP -- Raising our train, we set forth at eight o'clock in the morning, continuing on the same trail that we followed yesterday. Having traveled northwest and north-northwest over good terrain for eight or nine leagues we arrived at Baipia or Aribaipia, as the Primas variously call it. In our language the name means "Little Wells." In front of them ends the Sierra de Buccomari making between it and another a pass leading to the valleys of the Papaguería.
This Baipia or Aribaipia, in which our men have been several times, is known to them by the name of San Eduardo. Its water is found in wells and is scarce, but the natives say that even so it never fails. Its pasturage is sparse and very bad. About three leagues before reaching this place, between some small hills through which the road runs, there is so good an opportunity to make a dam that with a small amount of labor and almost without cost a plentiful supply of water could be assured for everybody who might wish to travel through here.
In this place we met two families of the pago tribe, who in language and customs are the same as the Pima tribe, the only difference being that these are too barbarous to be reduced to mission towns. Most of the pagos who enjoy this benefit have been persons who either voluntarily or through the chastisement of the political government have come down to the pueblos. With these, from the year 1756 down to the present, I have seen both the northern and the western Pimeria repopulated, and indeed if it were not for them neither district would exist today with such towns as they have.
These Papagos are not the people most hostile toward us, as we have experienced on the few occasions when they have revolted, and at such times as they have done this, stimulated by the example of the Pimas, they have paid dearly before the fury of our arms. Because of their nearness to our settlements, both of Spaniards and Indians, the Papagos frequently live in them, especially in the winter, in which season they almost completely desert their own country.
This is one of the most unfortunate regions that can be imagined, for even water necessary for their support is very scarce and they are never sure of having any. For lack of it the only crops which they raise are a few calabashes, watermelons, and muskmelons, which they trust to the seasonal rains, and if the rains are not unusually good the crops are entirely lost. In this region the only places known where they might make use of irrigation are Son?itac, through which we pass, and two others which have less permanent water, and never sufficient for crops of any consequence. In spite of all the unhappiness and the infelicities which have always been experienced in the land of the pagos, it has never been possible to induce them to settle amongst us, notwithstanding the advantages of the lands which have been offered them.
I estimate that the country which they inhabit must be sixty or seventy leagues from north to south and thirty or forty from east to west. This space they occupy according as there is more or less rain, but only for the time that this lasts, and there are few villages which maintain themselves in considerable numbers. For this reason, although I have been through most of this country, I cannot say, nor can anyone with certainty say, what are the habitations of these people. The estimate of their number is also extremely variable. Indeed, some have said there are six thousand, and others less, but in my opinion they number only perhaps twenty-five hundred souls, for the war and epidemics have greatly reduced their number during the last sixteen years.
These people, among whom are found both heathen and Christians, occupy the space that lies between the pueblos of our possessions and the Gila and Colorado rivers. Generally speaking, all this region is so sterile that neither shade trees nor roof timber are seen in it. However, if its inhabitants were given to industry and labor, they might without great difficulty store the rainwater and irrigate good-sized pieces of land. This pago tribe reaches to the Gila River, but the people living along that stream and in three or four other pueblos in which they are congregated are considered true Pimas. These are the only ones who have fields of maize, wheat, cotton and other crops, for which, in addition to the fertility of the land, they avail themselves of tapping the river. From this it may be inferred how easy it is once they have undertaken it. These Pimas, as well as the pagos, maintain communication with us and render obedience as best they can.
Monday January 24 SP -- Having watered the horses at the wells which had been opened the day before, we set out from San Eduardo at one in the afternoon, going northwest over good country and an open road, the chain of low hills of yesterday continuing on our left, until at vespers we reached the Pool of San Juan de Matha, distant from San Eduardo four leagues, where we camped for the night. This place is in a wide plain with an abundance of pasturage and the water which it now has, although assembled from the rainfall, is plentiful, and it would be possible by means of an earthen dam which could be made in a few hours to gather enough for the whole year. Here we found four families of Papagos, natives of the village of Quitobac, through which we shall pass.From Tubac to San Juan de Matha, 67 leagues.
Tuesday January 25 SP -- At one in the afternoon we set out from San Juan de Matha toward the northwest over open road, the hills continuing on the left and others on the right though farther away. Having traveled four leagues those on the left come so close that the road passes along their skirts, and right there they end. Two leagues back a trail branches off to the left, and leads to a well which has a small amount of water. Passing the hills mentioned, and continuing into the night, we traveled two more leagues and halted in a flat with little pasturage. A short distance before reaching the flat there is a trail branching off from the road and leading to a well like the other.
Wednesday, January 26 SP -- At eight in the morning we continued the journey toward the northwest for a little more than a league, to a place where there are some small hills with a well of water like the last ones. Leaving the hills to the left, and continuing to the north about another league, one turns again to the northwest; going in this direction another league and a half one turns finally to the west-northwest, and going in this direction two and a half leagues and skirting the hills on the left one reaches the village of Quitobac. From Tubac to Quitobac, 78 leagues.
A short time before we reached the place its justice and governor came out to meet me in a very friendly manner, and in the same way I saluted him and four families who are living in the village. The rest of the people, he told me, were partly in the missions and partly in the neighborhood seeking the few herbs and fruits which they customarily eat. One of those which is very usual is the fruit of the abrojos, which they scald, taking off the spines. From this may be inferred the poverty in which these miserable people live, having no recourse such as others have to any kind of game, for the sterility of the country deprives them of everything.
This place is surrounded by hills on all sides, except on the east and north. It is one of the best of all the Papaguería, because it has five springs of water, by no means the worst, which they gather and use to irrigate some small pieces of very sandy land where at most half a fanega of maize can be planted; but some cattle and horses could be raised, although not more than five hundred head, because the pasturage would not provide for more.
This Quitobac was called by the Jesuit fathers San Lu's de Bacapa, but of this name the natives have no recollection, nor of the arrival here, of which the fathers tell, of the religious from New Mexico, but they do preserve the name of San Lu's and the addition of Quitobac, by which name it is known to its inhabitants and to other tribes. Likewise it appears to me that there are not as many leagues between here and Caborca as those fathers say.
Thursday, January 27 SP -- At twelve o'clock today we set forth toward the north by the road which leads from San Luis de Quitobac to San Marcelo de Son?itac, over the good country which lies between the many hills which are near by on all sides. Having made about five and a half leagues, we halted to pass the night on the skirts of a hill which has some pasturage, and in which toward the south there is a tank which gathers rain water. Another like it is found about a league and a half before reaching this one, to which leads a trail that branches off to the left.
Friday, January 28 SP -- About eight in the morning we set forth on the same road toward the north-northwest, along the skirts of the hills on the left, for a distance of three leagues. These finished, the road turns to the north for two more leagues, when San Marcelo de Son?itac is reached.From Tubac to Son?itac, 88 leagues.
This place is situated in a good plain surrounded on all sides by cliffs and hills very close by, and some high peaks farther away. The country is open only to the north and northeast, in which direction there is to be seen about six leagues away a large range which the Pimas and pagos call El Cubot. It is of medium height, black in color or very dark, and in the middle of it a pass is visible. In the same northerly direction is the watering place, which is a sort of marsh, like which the water tastes. Although it is muddy it is very abundant and is the largest to be found in this country. It runs for a little more than a league and a half. It is sufficient for planting in the moderately good land about a fanega of maize. It lacks roof timber but it has pasturage enough to maintain as many as a thousand head of stock.
Of all the missions in the Pimería maintained by the Jesuit fathers, this was the last and most advanced to the northwest. They had just established and founded it in the middle of the year 1751, when it was destroyed on the occasion of the general uprising of the Pimas and pagos, who with cruel and prolonged torture murdered its missionary as well as the people of the country who kept him company. Notwithstanding that this place is unquestionably the best in all the Papaguería, I did not find in it more people than some six families, because the rest were engaged in the same occupations as those of Quitobac.
Today, upon leaving the hills which we have had on our left, the country was observed to be mineral bearing, and to have in it an abundance of rock which they call tepustete, this being the rock which indicates gold placers. I caused some portions of the ore to be dug out and loaded, to see if it showed any grains of that metal, and although we did not succeed in seeing any, yet there were all the indications that it would be found if greater efforts were made. And I shall not omit the labor of making the same experiment in any place that may appear to me to give promise of having any kind of metal.
Saturday, January 29 SP -- At half past eight in the morning we set out down the arroyo of Son?itac, on the road to E1 Carrisal, which most of the way runs straight west over fairly good country. We traveled in this direction eight or nine leagues, until nightfall, when we halted at E1 Carrisal, which is on the same arroyo of Sonoitac. This stream has plenty of water, but it is drinkable only for want of any other, besides which defect the place suffers from a lack of pasturage. From Tubac to E1 Carrisal, 96 leagues.
A league and a half after leaving San Marcelo, and at the same distance off the road which we have been following, on the right side, there is a round peak, conspicuous for this shape, for it is the only one among several in whose midst it stands, and it is composed of salt, or has veins of salt. I have heard of this for many years, and now the natives have confirmed the story, pointing out the hill to me and telling me that they use the salt, and that because of its extreme hardness they are able to get it only by prying it out with stakes in the rainy season, because this is the only time when it softens somewhat.
Sunday, January 30 SP -- Because the next watering place is far away and very difficult to reach for watering the riding animals, I decided to march to it in two divisions, both setting out in the afternoon. For this purpose I left the pack train here at El Carrisal with a corporal and seven soldiers. With the rest of the riding animals, the cattle, and the equipment that is necessary to use in reaching it, at twelve o'clock today I took the road which leads to it, going north-northwest for about three leagues and then three more to the northwest, with numerous hills always on one side or the other; then going through a good pass, after nightfall camp was made in a flat, although there was no pasturage here, as was true of all the country traveled over this afternoon. For this reason the animals ate only some mesquite sprouts.
Monday, January 31 SP -- At half past seven in the morning, setting out in the same direction, we took the road and began our march for El Aguaje Empinado. Having traveled about a league we reached the skirt of a medium-sized range on the right, which is of bare rock, and for that reason has neither pasturage, tree, nor bush, either large or small. The ground over which the road runs is fairly good, and having traveled over it five or six leagues in all, I arrived at the canyon where the water was, but to reach the place where it is found it was necessary to go on foot, or rather on my hands than on my feet -- From Tubac to El Aguaje Empinado, 108 leagues.
I saw at once that there was not enough water for all our animals, and that if it were given to all of those which I was taking ahead, it would leave the pack train exposed to death, this being the part of the train that can advance least rapidly because of the load which it carries. For this reason I decided to go on to the next watering place and leave this one free. So I set out for it about two in the afternoon, and having traveled three leagues west northwest, in addition to the six already covered, I camped for the night among some small hills where there was found a little pasturage, although it was bad.